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Itibsrul HrU
BEQUEST OF ARTHUR STANLEY PEASE
HISTORY
r\
-OF-
Coos County,
New Hampshire,
(ILLUSTRATED.)
Land of the Forest and the Rock!
Of dark-blue Lake and mighty River!
Of Mountains, reared aloft to mock
The storm's career, the earthquake's shock.
Our own Coos forever!
— Adapted.
SYRACUSE : W . A . F E R G U S S O N & Co.
L888.
Copyright, 1888,
By W. A. Fergusson & Co.
All Rights Reserved.
1111 JOURNA1 CO.,
i-KIN I liKS AND BINDERS,
SYRACUSE, N. Y.
TO those who have secured the preparation of this history: to those who have so generously and liberally furnished the illustrations; to those who have contributed their time and labor to make this a reli- able repository of valuable information of the days of "auld Jang syne"; to those well-wishers of the enterprise whose cheering words and willing assistance have ever been at our service; to these, and those unnumbered ones who have extended manifold courtesies to us, we hereby express our hearty thanks, and trust that the perusal of this volume will be a pleasure and a satisfaction to them during long years to come. To compile even the history of a single county requires much time, research, watchful care and discrimination in order to record facts and not hearsay. " Out of monuments, names, words, proverbs, traditions, records, fragments of stone, passages of books, and the like, we doe save and recover somewhat from the deluge of time."
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER. PAGE.
I. "THE COUNTY OF COOSS." 17
Organization— Towns Included— Extent- Boundaries — Population, Agricultural and Manufacturing Statistics. Etc., 1880— Loca- tions, Grants, and Purchases— Altitudes.
II Geology 20
Rock Formations— The Age of Ice— Glacial Drift— Upper Till— Lower Till— Champlain Drift— Recent or Terrace Period— Modified Drift of Connecticut River, Connecticut Lake, to West Stewartstown — Upper Con- necticut Valley — Karnes— Deltas.
III. Topography 26
The Water Sheds— Carriage Roads— Lumber Roads— The Water Basins— The Streams, Connecticut. Magalloway, Androscoggin — Source of the Connecticut— Description and Scenery — Second Lake, Connecticut Lake — Tributaries of the Connecticut — Lake Ma- galloway — Magalloway River — Androscog- gin River— Their Tributaries— Ci >untry along the Maine Line— Bogs and Peat Swamps.
IV. Scenery of Coos 34
Pittsburg — Crown Monument — Megantic Mountain —Headwaters of St. Francis and Chaudiere Rivers— Along the New Hamp- shire and Quebec Boundary— Third Lake— Mt. Carmel— Mt. Agizcoos— Cascades— Little Diamond Falls— Huggins Branch— Dixville Notch— 'The Old Man of Dixville"— The Flume— Cascade Brook— Huntington Cas- cade—Scenery of Errol— West Stewartstown to North Stratford — Groveton— Stark— Mi- lan—Lancaster— Jefferson — Randolph— Dal- ton — Shelburne — Gorham.
Y. Indian History 40
Aboriginal Indians — Iroquois — Mohawks — Algonquins — New England Tribes — Wig- wams—Social Life, Government, and Lan- guage—Food—Religion—The St. Francis In- dians— Gen. Amherst —Rogers' Expedition — Destruction of St. Francis Village— Retreat and Sufferings of tin- "Rangers."
CHAPTER. PAGE.
VI. White Mountains 46
Topography— Mt. Starr Kin- Group— Mt. Carter Group— .Alt. Washington Range- Cherry Mountain District— Mt. Willey I. —History— Mythology— First Yisited— Win- throp's Account—Darby Field's Route up the Mountains — Josselyn's Description of Scenery— The Crystal Hills— Eater Visits- Western Pass, or •'Notch"— First Settlemenl — Scientific Visitors — Sceneryofthe Notch Nash and Sawyer's Grant— "A Horse through the Notch"— Sawyer's Rock— First Articles of Commerce— Tenth New Hampshire Turn- pike—Scientific Explorations— First Settlers Among the Mountains— Nancy's Rock and Brook— First House in the Notch— Craw- ford's Cabin on the Summit — Summit House — Tip-Top House — Carriage Road — Glen House — Mt. Washington Railway— Mountain Tragedies— ••Among the Clouds" —Signal Station— Summer Hotels.
VII. Flants 58
Trees — Shrubs— Grasses— Introduced Plants — Alpine Plants.
VIII. Game of Coos Counts 60
Beaver — Dams— Moose— Description, I Etc. — Deer, Caribou, Etc. — Horns — Bear — Wolverine — Lynx — Otter- Fisher Sable — Raccoon — Gray Squirrel — Wild (feese and Ducks — Ruffed Grouse or Partridge Canada Grouse or Spruce Partridge— Wild Pigeons.
IX. Early History 72
Early Trappers and Hunters -Indian Threats — Capture of Stark ami Eastman Powers' Expedition — Extracts from Journal — Fort Wentworth first Settlers Townships, and Date of ( rrants Earlj Population.
X. Early Settlers 77
Character of Early Settlers of New Hamp- shire— characteristics of Pioneers of < loos- Hardships Endured Religion ami Educa- tion Traditional stories — Improvement in Condition -Primitive Houses. Furniture,
Contents.
CHAPTER
XI.
XH.
XIII
XI\
XV.
xvi
PAGE.
Etc.— Manners, Customs. Labor, Dress, Fare, Etc.— Description of Early Homes, Kitchens, Utensils, Stoves, Etc. Bevolutionar? Period and Early Roads. . . 85 "War of the Revolution— Frontier and Scout- ing Parties— Proposed Expedition— Conven- tion of Towns— Orders. Receipts, Etc.— Early Roads— Petitions Concerning Roads and New County — Roads in 1797 and 1803 — Tenth New Hampshire Turnpike— Jefferson Turn- pike, Etc. Survey and Marking of New Hampshire
and Maine Boundary 93
Boundary Surveys— Smuggling, Etc., 1812- 1815 — Boundary Commissions — " Indian Stream Territory"— Indian Stream War- Musters and Militia.
Resources, Attractions, Traditions. Sports, and Policy of Coos Concern- ing Fish and Came 106
Upper Cohos— Coos— Abenaquis— "Captain Joe" and "Captain John— King Philip— Metallak— Robbins and Hinds —Mountain Ranges— Lakes— Rivers— Fish and Game— Si „ ,Se~-W( lives— Deer— Bear— Fox— Salmon —Trout— Summer Travel-Railroad Facihties — Protection of Forests — Sports — Game Laws— True Legislation . The Timber Interests of Northern Coos . 123 Spruce Belt— Hard Wood Timber— The Sugar Maple— Other Woods— Resources and Man- ufacture—Opportunities for Investment. Coos County Press: Agricultural Socie- ties; Railroads • 131
White Mountain 3Egis— Coos County Demo- crat— Coos Republican —Prohibition Her- ald—Independent (now Lancaster) Ga- zette— Coos Herald. Etc.— Northern Sentinel — Colebrook Weekly News— News and S nel— Whitefield Blade — Coos Advertiser— The Mountaineer. Etc.— Coos Agricultural Society— Coos and Essex County Agricultural i ity— Railroads: Atlantic and St. Law- rence—White Mountains —Portland and Ogdensburg— Upper Coos.
Masi >nry in Coos 139
North Star Lodge, Lancaster — Templar Masonry in Northern New Hampshire- North Star Chapter, Lancaster — Evening Star Lodge, Colebrook — Gorham Lodge. Gorham -White Mountain Lodge, Whitefield —Officers of Grand Lodge, Grand Chapter and Grand Commandi >s County.
Tin. Soldiers of Coos 16°
Public Buildings 195
CHAPTER. PAGE.
XIX. National and State Officers 199
Early Representatives —Classed Representa- tives— Senators — County Officers.
XX. Bench and Bar 207
History of the Courts— Bench and Bar- Northern Judicial District.
CONNECTICUT VALLEY, DIVISION.
-LOWER
XVII. Will.
XXI. LANCASTER ....261
Origin of Name — Charter— Names of Grant- ees — Situation — Scenery. Etc. — Climate, Reason of Its Pleasantness— Change of Boundaries and Location.
XXII. Lancaster.— (Continued.) 268
First Settlements— Corn planted —Frost — Difficulty of Travel — Canoes — First White Woman — Supplies from Portsmouth or Haverhill —"Samp Mortar"— ••Cars"— First Mills — Revolution — Emmons Stockwell •would stay"— Major Jonas Wilder— Rich S,,il— Manure thrown away— Village Plot- First two-story house in Coos County— First Bridge — First Schools — Early Prices — ••Alarms During the War"— Early Settlers- Residents, Polls, and Stock, 1793— David Page petitions for more Land— Why '-Upper Coos" did not elect Representative— Edwards Bucknam granted mill privilege at North- umberland Falls— Petition. Etc., Concerning Taxes.
XXIII. Lancaster.— i Continued.) 276
Lancaster in 1795 and 1804 — Lancaster Bridge Co.— Extracts from Joseph Brackett's Diary, 1799 to 1801— Gen. Moses Hazen— South Lancaster or "Cat Bow"— Lancaster in 1810 —First Sabbath-School — 1820 - 1830 — Stores, Articles of Traffic, Etc.— Freight —Mail. Vehicles. Etc. — 1810 — Ex- tracts from A. N. Brackett's Diary — The Great Hail Storm— Climatic and Weather Records— Hon. John W.Weeks on Lancaster in 1839—1840 to 1850— J. S. Brackett's Sum- mary from 1850 to 1876— Village Streets— 1870 to 1887— Real Estate and Personal Prop- erty—1886.
XXIV. Lancaster.— (Continued.) -287
Brief Extracts from town Records. 1769 to 1834— First Town Meeting— First Town Clerk —First Representative of "Upper Coos"— Burying Field— Pound— Vote for President and Senator— Assessment for Roads payable in Wheat— Standard "half bushel"— Preach- in-', Etc.— Concerning building Mills— Em- mons Stockwell, Inn Keeper— Town Meet-
Contents.
CHAPTEE. PAGE.
ings, where held— School Districts— Meeting House— Rev. Joseph Willard -Early Taverns —Prices of Produce paid as Minister's Salary — Licenses Granted -Barker's Location An- nexed -First Fire Wards— Miscellaneous tracts from later Town 1; Action of
Town in the Rebellion, Etc. — Centennial Celebration — Freshets.
XXV. Lancaster. — (Continued.} 29 1
The Old Meeting House, Description of— Pews — Pulpit— "Singers Seats" Dr Foot Stove — Location of Meeting Hoi Parson Willard— Members of the Congrega- tion, Description of— Choir, Eti .
XXVI. Lancaster.— (Continued.) 299
Ecclesiastical — Early Pre a c h ing — First Church — Confession of Faith and Covenant — Original Members— First Pastor— "Parson" Willard's Letter— "Parson" Willard's Dis- missal— Other Pastors. — Orthodox Congre- gational Church — Organization — Faith and Covenant— Original Members -Pastors — New Articles of Faith, Etc.— First Unitarian So- ciety— Church Covenant — First Members- Pastors — Prominent Men in the Church- Officers — Ladies' Benevolent Society — Sun- day-School— Rev. J. B. Morrison. — Methodist Episcopal Church — Early Methodism — Or- ganization— Pastors — Financial Condition. — Baptist Church, Formation— Original Mem- bers— Church Building. -St. Paul's Episco- pal Church — Confirmation— Church Edifice — Rectors.-— Catholicity in Coos -First Pub- lic Service at Lancaster— Priests— Church Building — Missions.
XXVII. Lancaster.— (Continued.) 323
Chronicles from B. I'. Kent's Diary.
XXVIII. Lancaster. — (Continued.) 333
Early Education, Etc. — The Public Library — Schools— Union Graded School— Lancaster Academy — Sketch of the First Principal— •• Raising Men."
XXIX. Lancaster. — (Continued.) 342
Merchants — Manufacturers — Physicians, Apothecaries and Druggists — Hoti
XXX. Lancaster. — (Continued.) 350
Civil List. Town Clerks. Selectmen, and Rep- resentatives— Mails. Postoffices and Post- masters— Lancaster Bank — White Mountain Bank — Lancaster National Bank Lanca Savings Bank — Siwooganock Savings Bank— The New Cemetery— Societies, Grand Army, Belief Corps, Etc.
XXXI. Lancaster. — (Continued. ) 359
Brief Personal Sketches— Miscellaneous.
i II upter. paq
XXXII. JEFFERSON
Name and Territory Embraced—] Second Grants Second Charter — Petition Incorporation— Record of First Town Meet- ing—Names lit' Voters — Roads — J: Taverns i:< sidi uts, Polk - and Im-
provements in 1812.
XXXIII. Jefferson.— i Continued.) 40 I
Population in 177.") 1790-1800— Scenery ferson Hill — Traditions -Early Propri —Col. Joseph Whippli — Early S First
Child— Pond of Safety— First White Woman —Deborah Vieker or "Granny Stalbird" First Communication — First Cows — Firs! Barrel of Rum— Adino N. Brackett's Descrip- tion of. Jefferson in 1821 — Boundaries — Pop- ulation -Valuation.
XXXIV. Jefferson.— (Continued.) 11"
Civil List — Representatives, Town Clerks. Selectmen. Supervisors.
XXXV. Jefferson. — i ( lontinued.) 113
Educational Interests— Action of th< Town in Relation to Schools 1798-1827— "Old North School-House" -School Officers— Superin- tending Committee — Board of Education.
XXXVI. Jefferson. — (Continued.) U5
Ecclesiastical History— First Sermon -Bap- tist Church- -Names of Early Members- Pas- tors—Free Will Baptist Church— Mem1 Pastors — Elder Morse — Methodism— Prog- ress Leaders— Class — Members — Church Organized — Pastors— Sabbath-School.
XXXVII. Jefferson.— (Continued.) 117
Miscellaneous— Cherry Mountain Slidf — Jef- ferson Meadows Postoffices —Lumber —
Merchants— Physician — Summer Hotels and Boarding Houses -Benjamin Hicks— Benja- min H.Plaisted— Daniel Austin— A goodstory.
XXXVIII. KILKENNY
A.N. Brackett's Description — Settled Por- tions Attached to Jeffi i -on.
XXXIX. ( IARROLL 427
Carroll, location of — Boundaries -Bn Woods Soil— Pioneers, Etc.- I Early
Mills.
XL. Carroll— (Continued. | 130
First Town Record— Bretton Woods— First dents Inventory — Non-resident Land Owners — Highway Districts Established — School Mi larly Births Recorded.
XLI. Carroll. (Continued.) 134
Civil List— Action in the Rebellion— Popula- tion Relii Valuation — I
ness Interests —Hoi
8
Contents.
CHAPTER.
PAGE.
XLII. WHITEFIELD 447
Whitefield's Petition for Grant — The Grant — Charter of Whitefields— Considerations for Land Granted — Paul and Benning Went- worth — Other Grantees — Gerrish Survey — The First Moderator— Capt. Jonas Minot — Samuel Minot.
XLIII. Whitefield.— (Continued.) 455
Organizing under the Grant — First Recorded Civil Officers — Important Sale of Lands, 1795 — Col. Joseph Kimball— Proprietors' Meet- ing, December 3, 1800 — Committee and its Powers— Abstract of Proprietors' Records — First Draft of Lots— Names of Grantees with Number of Lot.
XLIV. Whitefield.— (Continued. ) ... .460
"What's in a Name" — Rev. George Whitefield
— Whitefield — Petition for Incorporation, Etc.— First Town Meeting and Officers, 1805 — Major John Burns — Capt. David Burns, Etc. — Col. Josepli Kimball — John McMaster
— First Innkeeper, Asa King — Col. Joseph Colby — First Merchant, William Dodge — First Inventory — Early Roads.
XLV. Whitefield.— (Continued.) 469
Ecclesiastical. Provisions for Religious Wor- ship— Free Will Baptists — Congregationalists — Adventists— Union Meeting-Honse — Meth- odism— Young Men's Christian Association — Catholicism — Temperance — Schools- -Soci- eties.
XL VI. Whitefield. — (Continued.) 479
lit cords Concerning School-House, Indian Stream Soldiers and Town House — Action of the Town Concerning the Rebellion — Repre- sentatives—Town Officers.
XLVTI. Whitefield.— (Continued.) 482
Physicians — Lawyers, Etc. — Merchants, Man- ufacturers, and Mills— White Mountain Lum- ber Co. — Present Business Interests — East Whitefield Farmers' Club and White Mount- ain Grange — White Mountain View House.
XLVIH. DALTON 506
Grantees — Name, Apthorp — Dalton — Tris- tram Dalton — Petition for a Division — Moses Blake Petitions for a Ferry — Recommenda- tion of Bloss — Petitions for Taxing Non- i;( sidents — Petitions for Tax for Repairing Roads — Petition of Walter Bloss for a Ferry — First Settlers.
XLIX. Dalton.— (Continued.) 512
Art Authorizing First Town Meeting — First Town Meeting — Dalton — Lands and Live Stock, 1809— Town Officers— Town Expenses — First Three School Districts — John's River Bridge — Extracts from Town Records, 1810- 1884.
chapter. page. L. Dalton. — (Continued.) 519
Early Births— Early Marriages— Early Resi- dents—Ear Marks — Dalton in 1821 — Early Inn Keepers— Whitefield Road— Bridge across the Connecticut — Carriages — Mills — Resi- dents' Names, 1849— Civil War, Action of the Town, Etc. — Mines — Murder — Personal Sketches.
LI. Dalton.— (Continued.) 529
Ecclesiastical. Organization of Congrega- tional Church — Original Members — Addi- tional Members — Action in Relation to a Church Building— Erection of Church — Dea- cons — Ministers — Meeting House — Parson- age— Methodist Church.
LH. Dalton. — (Continued.) 535
Civil List, Representatives, Selectmen, Town Clerks.
LIU. NORTHUMBERLAND 539
Origin of the Name "Northumberland" — Township first Granted — Regranted — Incor- porated— Soil — Rivers— Cape Horn Mountain — Scenery — Early Population — Early Build- ings — Charter — ■ Names of Grantees — Diffi- culty with Woodbury.
LIV. Northumberland. — (Continued.) 542
Early Settlers — Thomas Burnside — Daniel Spaulding — Capt. Jeremiah Eames — Early Proprietors — Proprietors' Meetings — Action of the Same — First Bridges — Last Meeting of the Proprietors, 1810.
LV. Northumberland. — (Continued.) 546
Petition for Road from Couway 1780 — Report of Committee relative to said Road 1780 — Petition of Enoch Bartlett 1780— Petition for a Ferry 1785— Petition for a Lottery 1791 — Petition for a New County 1791 — Petition to Tax for a Bridge 1799.
LVI. Northumberland. — (Continued.) 549
Town Officers — Selectmen — Town Clerks — Treasurers — Representatives — -Action of Town on Various Matters.
LVII. Northumberland. — (Continued.) 554
Ecclesiastical— Methodist Episcopal Church — Present Members— Ammonoosuc Lodge, I. O. O. F. —Members— Lodge of Good Templars — M ember s— S c h o o 1 s — Physicians — Fort Wentworth and Revolution — Soldiers of the War of 1812 and Mexican War — First Judge of Probate — First Register of Probate — Bus- iness Interests, Etc.
LVIII. STARK 562
Stark— "Devil's Slide"— "Devil's Hop-yard" — Christine Lake and Percy Summer Club— Soil— Minerals— Percy— Boundaries — Legis- lative Acts— Petition for Incorporation —
( lONTENTS.
CHAPTER. PAGE.
N;unes of Grantees— Proprietors' Meeting — Records, Etc.
LIX. Stark.— (Continued.') 570
i arly Setters— Residents in 1803— E a r 1 y Births and Marriages— First Town Meeting —Extracts from Records in Relation to Schools, Roads. Etc.— Civil List.
LX. Stabk. — (Continued.) 575
Union Church — Missionaries— Schools and Districts — Town Hall — Town Library — Action of Town in the Rebellion — Lumber
— Business Interests— Brief Sketches.
CONNECTICUT VALLEY,— UPPER
DIVISION.
I. XI. ( OLEBROOK 583
Location, Size,Topography and General Feat- ures — Soil — Productions — First Settlers- Indians, Metallak and Wife— Petition for Incorporation— Sketch of Petitioners.
LXII. Colebrook.— (Continued.) 587
Colebrook from 1796 to 1815— Road through Dixville Notch— Whiskey Manufacture— Con- tract of Smith & Pratt— Their Various En- terprises — McAllaster Mills — Dagway — Amount Invested by Smith & Pratt.
LXIII. Colebrook. — (Continued.) 590
Invoice of 1816— Residence of Tax Payers- Number of Polls, Horses and Cattle— Taxes of 1816— Cold Seasons of 1816 and 1817— Burning of Cotton Factory— Rebuilding of
the Same — Roasting Pigs — John Whitte- more.
LXIV. Colebrook.— (Continued ) 594
Education in Colebrook — The Common Schools — Colebrook Academy — Original Grantees— Grant of land from the State- Mercantile Interests —Traders of former Days and Now— Fire of July 24, 1870 -Rebuilding of Village— Odd Fellows— Physicians.
LXV. Colebrook.— (Continued.) 600
Postoffices and Postmasters in Colebrook — Saw-mills —Grist-mills— Starch-mills— Man- ufacture of Potasli and Pearlash.
LXVI. Colebrook.— (Continued.) 604
The Churches of Colebrook— Organization of Congregational Church— Creed and Doc- trine -Pastors of the Church— The Metho- dist Church— Sketches of Members of the Churches— East Colebrook Church.
LXYII. Colebrook.— (Continued.) 616
Early Settlers— old Documents.
LXYIII. Colebrook.— (Continued.) 626
Civil List — Selectmen, Treasurers, Town Clerks and Representatives—*' lusion.
PAGE.
.649
CHAPTER.
LXIX. DIXVILLE
Roads Boti Is Scenery, i LXX. STEWARTSTOWN 651
Grants and Grantees — Pi tition i 1795) to
Assi ss Tax on Non-Residen1 Lands -Petition to Amend Acl of Incorporation— Call for First Town Meeting— Action of Said Meeting — Boundaries — Second Town Meeting — Election of First Representative First In- ventory—Settlers before 1800— Early Times — Hardships Endured— First Licenses— War of 1812— Historic half-bushel— First River Road — Earmarks — Taverns and Hoi Corporations -Diamond and Nathan Ponds, how named— Metallak— Janus Miner Halliard — The Great Hail Storm— Bridges across the Connecticut.
LXXI. Stewartstown.-- (Continued.) 659
Description, Lots, and Settlement— West Stewartstown -Settled and Unsettled Terri- tory— Ponds and Streams— Soil and Minerals — Game— Horses, Cattle and Sheep— Grasses — Grass Seed — Journeys to Portland — Roads and Sleighs— Clothing — Potatoes — Wheat, Oats, and other Products.
LXXII. Stewartstown. — (Continued.) 664
Settlers prior to 1800— Non-Resident Land —Settlers Early in this Century— Settlers in 1856 — Extracts from Records giving Action of Town on Roads, Soldiers. Etc. --Civil List: Representatives, Selectmen, Town Clerks - Votes for Governor.
LXXHI. Stewartstown.— (Continued.) 669
Salts and Pearlashes— Flax — Brick— Leather — Shoes and Harnesses — Blacksmiths — Saw- Mills— Grist-Mills-Starch Factories-Shingle and Clapboard Mills— Planing and Wood- turning — Machine Shops — Wheelwrights -- Furniture and House Furnishings— Woolen and Carding Mills — Foundry and Tinsmith— Merchants and Traders— Physicians, Etc.
LXXIV. Stewartstown.- (('ontinued.) 674
Ecclesiastical-- Congregational Church — Organization— Names of First Membi Pastors — Sunday-school. Christian Church - Organization Action of the Church Original Membership— Extracts from Records Organization of "Union" Church — Membership and Dal - oi l;< ci ptior E tracts from Records and other Bistorj -Ed- ucational Intel . 3ts- First School District. I .:■■.
LXXV. CLARKSVLLLE 689
Boundaries- Origin <<i' Xante- First Propri- etors Early Settlers- First Town Meel —Early Man
10
Contents.
CHAPTER. PAGE.
LXXVI. PITTSBURG 696
Pit1 sburg — Boundaries — First Explored — To] » tgraphy — Lakes — Streams — Ponds — Rocks — Minerals.
LXXYII. Pittsbdbg. — (Continued.) .700
Exploration in 1789 — Resources — First Settlers — Permanent Settlers — Ebenezer Fletcher — Growth of the Settlement.
LXXVIII. Pittsburg.— (Continued.) 705
Action and Report of Legislative Com- mittees in 1824 Concerning Titles under King Philip's Deed.
LXXIX. Pittrburg.— (Continued.) 707
Progress and Growth for the Next Decade — Independent Government — Blanchard's Ar- rest—Incorporation— Kimball B. Fletcher — Tornado.
LXXX. Pittsburg. — (Continued.) 712
Legislative Action Concerning Pittsburg, is if 1867— Action of Town in the Rebellion —Civil List.
LXXXI. Pittsburg.— (Continued.) 717
The First Church — Religious Societies - Schools — Agriculture — Connecticut River Lumber Co.— Business, Etc.— Upper Con- necticut River and Lake Improvement Co. — Upper Coos Railroad — Advantages to Pitts- lmrg.
LXXXII. COLUMBIA 721
Grant of Township — Signers to Petition — Wales's Location — Boundaries — Lime Pond- First Town Meeting- Resident Tax List — Polls and Ratable Estate in 1810— Valuation of Buildings in 1824— Schools— Town Offi- cers' Fees— Politics— Cemeter
LXXXIII. Columbia.— (Continued.) 725
Pioneers. Abel Larnard — Abel Hobart— The Wallaces — Noah Buffington — Philip Jordan — Benjamin Jordan.
LXXXIV. Columbia.— (Continued.) 731
Mills— Pearlashes and Potash— Tanning and Shoe-making — Cloth Dressing — Pot- Distilleries and Starch-Mills —Ferry and Toll Bridge— Merchants- Stores.
LXXXV.— Columbia.— (Continued.) 735
Civil List — Representatives, Town Clerks and Selectmen — War of tl llion— -Sta-
tistics of 1S8G.
LXXXYI. Columbia.— Continued.) 738
Church History— Early Services— Columbia Church — Christian Church— Profession of Faith— Preachers— Church Edifice— Deacon
John Annis.
CHAPTER. PAGE.
LXXXVII. STRATFORD 744
Introductory — Woodbury — Names of Gran- tees— Difficulty Concerning Boundaries — Transfers Prior to 1772— Proprietors' Action — Call for Meeting — Gov. Wentworth's De- cision.
LXXXVIII. Stratford. -( Continued. ) 748
Stratford — Conditions of Charter — Grantees' Names, with Number of Lot — First Settlers — First Woman Settler — Contest of Skill- Brief Description of Settlers and their Families— Description and Topography of Town— The First Settlements — Pitches Al- lotted— Extracts From Proprietors' Records; Concerning Mills, Town Plot, Lots and Roads, Trouble about First Grist-Mill— First Settlers have First Pitches.
LXXXIX. Stratford.— (Continued.) 754
The Revolution— Soldiers' Claims and Orders —Condition of Matters, Taxes, Etc., in 1778 — Petition for Abatement and Incorporation. 1778 — First Settlers, Improvements and Stock, 1777— Petition for a Guard, 1780— Certificate, Burnside's Ferry, 1786— Petition for a New County, 1791— Petition for Abate- ment of Taxes.
XC. Stratford. — (Continued.) 759
Development, Growth and Population — Early Officers— First Marriage— The Town of Stratford— Call for First Town Meeting, Etc.— Survey — Extract from Town Records —War of 1812— Great Civil War— Stratford Hollow; Business, Etc.— Methodist Church.
XCI. Stratford.— I Continued.) 765
Civil List: Clerks, Selectmen, Treasurers, Representatives.
XCII. Stratford.— (Continued.) 7G7
North Stratford; Business Interests, Rail- road, Postoiliec— Hinman's Island— Baptist Church — Education — Hotels— Societies — Granite State Stoek-Farm— Mills— Physi- cians— Lawyers — Brief Personal Sketches.
ANDROSCOGGIN DIVISION.
XCI1I. BERLIN 783
Intrc idue tory— T o p o g r a p h y— S c e n e r y— Mountains. Streams, Etc.— Tinkers Brook. Minerals, Etc. — Act of Incorporation— Call for First Town Meeting— Action of First Town Meeting -Residents' Names and Ages, 1829— Residents, Stock, and Improvements in 1830— Name* of Voters, by Decades.
XCTV. Berlin.— (Continued.) 788
Early Settlers -First House (William Ses- sions) — Second House (The Lowes and
( '( INTENTS.
11
CHAPTER. PAGE,
Cates) — Simon Evans —Joseph Wheeler — The Thompsons — Samuel Blodgett — Th< Wheeler Daniel Davis— The Bean Family — Joseph Blodgett- Hazen and John chand- ler- Merrill C. Forist John V. Dustin- Lorenzo Mason— Past and Present Business Interests — Thomas Green -J. D. Horner & Co. — Daniel Green — Ira and Oliver H. Mason and other Early Traders and Manufactur- ers— Railroad, Station Agents, Ere.
KCV. Berlin.— (Continued.) 795
Civil List: Town Clerks, Selectmen, Treas- urers. Representatives — Extracts from Town Records — Berlin in the Rebellion — Action of the Town.
XCVI. Berlin.— (Continued. > 799
Ecclesiastical: Church of Christ — Forma- tion—Original Members — Confession of Faith — Action of Church Meetings — Pas- tors— Progress of the Church— Young Peo- ple's Society of Christian Endeavor — The Sunday-School — Organization of Parish — Church Structure — Origin, Etc., Universalist Church — Meetings— Articles of Faith— Par- ish Society Organized— Church Building — Sabbath-School— Catholic Church — Priests — Church — Parsonage — St. Paul Evangelical Lutheran Church Parish —Member s — Pas- tor—Second Advent Meetings.
XCVII. Berlin.— (Continued.) 804
Education— First School— First Teacher — School Districts— Amos Mann — Berlin High
School.
XCVIII. Berlin.— (Continued, i 808
Early Roads and Bridges— First Church Or- ganization— Unusual Phenomena — Hotels — Burial Places— Societies— Berlin Mills — For- est Fibre Company — Glen Manufacturing Compauy— White Mountain Pulp and Paper Ci impany — Physicians — Lawyers — Mercan- tile and Business Houses. 1887 — Report of Selectmen, 1887.
XCIX. MILAN 830
Introductory — S u r f a c e— S o i 1— G rant — Boundaries — Pioneers — Character of Set- tlers— Inventory for 1825— Early Convey- ances.
C. Milan.— (Continued.) 835
Act of Incorporation — First Town Meeting- Extracts from Town Records— -Action in the Rebellion— Civil List: Town Clerks, s men, Treasurers, Representatives.
CI. Milan.— (Continued.) 838
Mills— Milan Mine— Business Interests.
CHAPTER. PAi
CH. Mii.av. (Continued.) 842
( Ihurch History Mi thodism Pasti
ent Society Original Members of Methodist
Church Church Building Calvinist Baptist
Society Free-Will Bap; ty Civil
War.
CHI. Milan. (Continued.)
Physicians, Past and Present A Model Mar- riage Certificate.
CIV. DIMMER
B lundaries Origin of Name 1 Granted Surveyed— Early and Late]
Inventory of Polls and Personal Prop- erty, 1849.
CV. Dcmmeu (Continued. 1 859
Petition for Incorporation— Civil List: Town Clerks, Treasurers, Selectmen, and Repre- sentatives Schoi
CVI. SHELBURNE 867
Name -Scenery and Attractions — Bound- aries— First Grant Names of Grantees De- scriptions of the Original Grant.
CVII. Shelburne.— (Continued . ) 871
Early Settlers: Hope Austin — Daniel Ox- galls—Stephen Messer— Thomas Green Sam- uel Wheeler — Jonathan Evans — Benjamin Clemens— Bazeleel Gates— Simeon E\ Jonathan Peabody— Jonathan Lary— Peter Poor— Nathaniel Loiter. Etc.
CVHI. Shelburne.— (Continued.) 876
Industries "Peggy" Davis's Mittens Transportation — Mills — First Merchant Early Business Interests -Loads -Taverns- Bridges.
CIX. Shelburne.— (Continued.) 880
Religion— Church of Christ- Original Mem- bers—Free Chinch -Free-Will Baptist Church Reform Club — Union Mei House Schools- Teachers White Mount- ain Stock-Farm Judge Burbank Mine- Hotels Soldiers Town Clerks and ctmen from 1839.
CX. GOL1IAM
Scenery and Attractions -Boundaries Shel- burne Addition Survey First Set: Permanent Settler Other Settlers.
CXI. Gobham. (Continued.)
Early Difficulties in Way of Settlement The "Addition" in 1821 and lal School \n icdote Tl shet In-
crease in Population- Commencemen Prosperity Andrew G. and Jonathan I
First Mills Village Site in 1835 Trade, Traffic and Boti
12
Contents — Index to Towns.
CHAPTER. PAGE.
CXII. Gorham.— (Continued.) 900
Act of Incorporation of Gorham— First Town Meeting— Town Officers— Tax-payers in 1836 School Districts Formed— Extracts from Records and Civil List.
( XIII. Gorham — (Continued.) 906
Ecclesiastical History — Free-Will Baptist Society — Congregational Church, Society, Pastors— Methodist Episcopal Church— Uni- versalist Society— Catholic Church— Schools.
CXLV. Gorham.— (Continued.) 911
Railroads— Grand Trunk Railway, Shops, and Employes — Gorham Village — Hazen Evans— Valentine L. Stiles— Progress of Gor- ham—Fires— Buildings— Lawyers and Phy- sicians—Business Interests, Manufacturers, Bank, Merchants and Tradesmen.
CXV. Gorham.— (Continued.) 921
Hotels — Societies — Postmasters — Mascot Mine — Thirty Years Changes.
CXVI. RANDOLPH 935
First Grant — Location — Scenery— Hotels- Lots, Ranges, Improvements— Early Settlers.
chapter. PAGE,
CXVH. Randolph.— (Continued.) 941
Act of Incorporation— First Town Meeting Called — Representatives— Town Clerks— Se- lectmen—Town Treasurers.
CXVIII. Randolph.— (Continued.) 943
Schools— Church History — Organization of "Union Congregational Society "—War Record— Pond of Safety — Prominent Citi- zens.
CXIX. ERROL 948
Grantees —Lumbering— Soil— Boundaries— Umbagog Lake — Androscoggin River Im- provement Company— Errol Dam Company —Old Families — Petitions of Proprietors, Action of Town, Etc.
CXX. Errol.— (Continued.) 951
Application for Call of a Town Meeting- Call, Notification and Action of First Town Meeting— Act of Incorporation— Warrant for, and First Town Meeting after Incorporation —List of Voters, 1837— Civil List.
INDEX TO TOWNS.
PAGE.
BERLIN 783
CARROLL 427
CLARKSVILLE 689
COLEBROOK 583
COLUMBIA 721
DALTON 506
DIXVILLE 649
DUMMER 854
ERROL 948
GORHAM 888
JEFFERSON 399
KILKENNY 426
LANCASTER 261
PAGE.
MILAN 830
MILLSFIELD 955
NORTHUMBERLAND 539
PITTSBURG 696
RANDOLPH 935
SHELBURNE 867
STARK 562
STEWARTSTOWN 651
STRATFORD 744
SUCCESS 955
WENTWORTH'S LOCATION 95&
WHITEFIELD 447
BIOGRAPHIES AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE.
ABBOTT, CARL 239
ALDRICH, HON. EDGAR 254
ALGER, L. W 683
ARMINGTON, W. N 237
BALDWIN FAMILY 776
BALDWIN, W. L engraving 778
BARKER, ALBERT 248
BARNARD, LEVI 211
BEDEL, COL. HAZEN engraving 637
BENTON, HON. JACOB 217
BERLIN CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH engraving 802
BERLIN HIGH SCHOOL engraving 806
BROWNS' LUMBER COMPANY 492
BROWN, A. L engraving 493
BROWN. W. G engraving 194
BROWNS' LUMBER MILLS engraving 496
BUGBEE, DR. FRANK 397
BURBANK, JUDGE R. 1 884
BURKE, EDMUND 213
BURNS, HON. WILLIAM engraving 218
BURT, CHAS. W : 247
CARPENTER, PHILIP 237
CHAMBERLIN, R. N engraving 237
COOPER, S. W 247
COOS COUNTY MAP Facing 16
COSSITT, GEO. A 217
CRAWFORDS, THE 439
DALEY, D.J 240
DREW, HON. A. W engraving
DREW, EDWIN W 682
DREW. HON. I. W engraving
DUDLEY. J. II engraving 252
EATON, GEO. R engraving
EVANS. A. 1! 233
EVERETT, R. C 209
FARRAR. WM
FLETCHER II. A 215
FLETCHER, JUDGE EVERETT
FLINT. L. T 247
FOREST FIBRE MILLS
FURBISH. II. II Qgraving.
FURBISH, H. H., RESIDENCE OF
GOVE, DR. GEO. S engravin
GOSS, II. I
14: Biographies and Illustrations.
PAGE.
GRAY, HOSEA engraving 385
GREEN FAMILY 817
GREEN, DANIEL engraving 819
GREEN, S. D 821
HANNAFORD, S. G engraving 686
HARTSHORN, G. W 257
HASTINGS, M. A 230
HAZEN. L. T engraving 498
HEYWOOD. HON. WILLIAM engraving 214
HEYWOOD. HENRY 229
HINDS, ABRAHAM 210
HITCHCOCK. J. II engraving 927
HUTCHINS, F. D 237
HUTCHINSON, HON. L. H 853
HUTCHINSON, T. H engraving 931
JACOBS. F. C engraving 687
JORDAN, HON. C. B engraving 233
KENT, R. F engraving 366
KENT, HON. H. O engraving 372
KEYSAR, JOHN engraving 694
KING, CHARLES W 498
KING. THOMAS STARR 424
LADD, HON. W. S engraving 227
LANCASTER VILLAGE IN 1826, MAP OF 282
LARY, A. G engraving 926
LOMBARD, DR. LYMAN engraving 635
LOWE, PROF. T. S. C 425
LUND, H. W 257
MARSHALL, A. J engraving 394
McGREGORY, JOEL engraving 502
MERRILL, HON. S. R engraving 640
MERRILL, S. S engraving 646
MORRISON, REV. J. B 317
NO YES, CAPT. WARREN engraving 929
PAINE. HON. S. E 815
PARSONS FAMILY 627
PARSONS, HEZEKIAH engraving 629
PARSONS, HEZEKIAH engraving 633
PARSONS, JAMES I engraving 251
PEARSON, S. A 210
PERKINS, HON. N. R engraving 421
PEVERLY, THOMAS, JR 210
PHIFPS, JAMES M 851
PHIPPS, P. A. G. W 852
PICKARD, I. H 687
RAMSAY, IRA A 249
RAY, HON. OSSIAN engraving 222
RAY, O. P 250
REMICK, S. K 648
REMICK, D. C 256
REMICK, J. W 256
ROGERS, D. A 248
ROSEBROOK FAMILY 443
ROSEBROOK, PH1NEAS engraving 444
SCRIBNER, E. W engraving 827-828
SHEAFE, JOHN L 246
SHURTLEFF, W. H 250
SMITH, FRANK engraving 392
Biographies and [llust ration;
Pi
SOULE, CAPT. GILBERT engraving 559
SPAULDING. J. II engraving 387
STEPHENSON, TURNER 212
STUART, C.J 21]
THOMPSON, ALEX engraving 396
TRUE, DR. N. T 934
TWITCHEL, ADAMS engraving 848
TWITCHELL, GEN. A. S 229
TWITCHELL, V.V
VANDYKE, GEORGE engraving 390
WEEKS FAMILY :;7s
WEEKS. HON. J. W engraving 382
WELLS. JOHN S 212
WHEELER, DEXTER , engraving 822
WHEELER, R. H " engraving B24
WHIDDEN. HON. B. F 220
WIGHT, I. C engraving
WILLIAMS. GOV.J.W 212
WILLIAMS, GEO. C 221
WILLIAMS. J. 1 221
WISWALL, B. C engraving 692
YOUNG, GEN. IRA 245
HISTORY
OF
COOS COUNTY
CHAPTER I.
"the county of cooss."
Organization — Towns Included — Extent — Boundaries — Population, Agricultural and Man- ufacturing Statistics, etc., 1880 — Locations, Grants, and Purchases — Altitudes.
THE act establishing ' ' The County of Cooss " was approved December 24, 1803, and took effect March 5, 1805. It contained the towns of Dalton, Whitefield, Bretton Woods, Bartlett, Adams, Chatham, Shel- burne, Shelburne Addition, Durand, Kilkenny, Jefferson, Lancaster, Mills- field, Northumberland, Stratford, Wales' Gore, Cockburne, Colebrook, Stewartstown, Piercy, Paulsburg, Mainesborough, Dummer, Errol, Cam- bridge and Success, with a population of about 3,000 in 1803.
The General Court had a defective knowledge of the line they under- took to make the southern boundary, for, in describing it, it is made to go to the northwest corner of Tamworth, and from thence on the line of the county of Strafford to the Maine line. To reach the northwest corner of Tamworth, it had to follow the west line of Albany south the whole width of the town, and then, to reach the north line of Strafford county, which it was to follow, it had to go back north on the same west line of Albany without including any land.
June 18, 1805, Nash and Sawyer's Location was annexed to Coos county, and January 5, 1853, Bartlett, Jackson (Adams), and Hart's Location were annexed to Carroll county. Not long after the formation of Coos county, Chatham was annexed to Strafford county, and upon the erection of Carroll county, Chatham was included in that county.
18 History of Coos County.
Coos was taken from Grafton, one of the five original counties of the State — Eockingham, Strafford, Hillsborough, Cheshire. Grafton — and com- prises all New Hampshire north of the present counties of Grafton and Carroll. Its western boundary is the western bank of the Connecticut river, and it extends from latitude 4S° 58' to the extreme north part of the State, being seventy- six miles in length, with a mean width of about twenty miles. It contains about one million acres of land. The distance by traveled highway from the north line of Grafton county at Littleton to the Canada line at West Stewartstown is about sixty -two miles. On the Maine line, it is seventy-three miles from Carroll county to the iron post on the highlands, in the wilderness on the northern boundary.
It is bounded north and northwest by Canada, east by Maine, south by Carroll and Grafton counties, and west by Vermont.
The census of 1880 gives the total population of the county as 18,580. By the same census we learn that in that year Lancaster has a population of 2,721; Whitefield, 1,828; Colebrook, 1,580; Gorham, 1,383; Berlin, 1,114 ; Northumberland, 1,062 ; and Stratford, 1,016. Jefferson only wants 49 to make a round 1,000, while Stewartstown only 42. The other towns exceeding 500 are : Milan, 892 ; Columbia, 762 ; Stark, 690 ; Carroll, 632 ; Pittsburg, 5S1 ; Dalton, 570. The remaining towns and grants give the following : Dummer, 464 ; Clarksville, 328 ; Shelburne, 252 ; Eandolph, 203 ; Errol, 161; Nash and Sawyer's Location, 101; Millsfield, 62 ; Wentworth's Location, 55 ; Cambridge, 36 ; Martin's Location, 33 ; Dixville, 32 ; Craw- ford's Grant, 28 ; Thompson and Meserve's Purchase, 20 ; Second College Grant, 18 ; Green's Grant, 8 ; Dix's Grant, 4 ; and Sargent's Purchase, 2. There are in this county 1,939 farms, having a total of 139,089 acres of improved land ; aggregate value of said farms, including buildings, fences, etc., $4,350,042 ; implements and the machinery thereon, $192,544 ; stock, $774,838 ; estimated value of annual farm products, $943,427. The vege- table productions : potatoes, 623,183 bushels ; barley, 1,8^3 ; buckwheat, 43,431; Indian corn, 10,129; oats, 228,698; rye, 923; wheat, 3t,164; tobacco, 1,000 pounds; hay, 49,734 tons; orchard products, annual value, $3,979. The number of horses raised in the county, 3,941; mules and asses, 4; working oxen, 1,615; milch cows, 6,47-1; other cattle, 10,723; sheep, 16,832; swine, 2,784; wool, 71,504 pounds; butter, 632,822; cheese, 36,795. The assessed valuation of real estate and personal property is $5,911 , 552. There are 194 manufacturing establishments, using $2,107,250 capital, paying $336,010 annually to 1,262 operatives, and turning out products valued at $2,490,356. The next census will show a change.
Locations, Grants and Purchases. — In addition to the towns which are organized in this county there are the following unorganized grants, pur- chases, locations, etc., which contain between three and four hundred inhabi- tants, and lie mostly among wild mountains, and whose chief value is in the
Organization — Altitudes. l ! »
timber they produce and the incentive they present of romantic scenery to the summer traveler: Bean's Purchase, Carlisle, Cambridge, Hubbard, Webster, Chandlers Purchase, Crawford's Grant, Craw lord's Purchase, Cutt's Grant, Dix's Grant, Ervin's Grant, Gilmanton and Atkinson Acad- emy Grant, Green's Grant, Lowe and Burbank's Grant, Martin's Location, Nash and Sawyer's Location, Odell, Pinkham's Grant, Sargent's Purchase, Second College Grant, Thompson and Meserve's Purchase, Wentworth's Location. Millsfield and Cambridge, after being organized as towns for some years, gave up their organization.
Altitudes.— Mt. Washington, 6,293 ft.; Mt. Adams, 5,794 ft.; Alt. Jef- ferson, 5,714 ft.; Mt. Clay, 5,553 ft.; Mt. Monroe, 5,384 ft.; Mt. Little Monroe, 5,204 ft.; Mt. Madison, 5,365 ft.; Mt, Franklin, 4,904 it.: Mt. Pleasant, 4,764 ft.; Mt. Clinton, 4.320 ft.; Mt, Jackson, 4,100 ft.; Mt. Webster, 4,000 ft.; Mt. Crawford, 3,134 ft; Giant's Stairs, 3,500 ft.; Boott Spur, 5,524 ft.; Boott Deception, 2,448 ft.; Carter Dome. South Peak, 4,830 ft,; Carter Dome, North Peak, 4,702 ft,; Mt. Moriah, 4,053 ft.; Mt. Wildcat, 4,350 ft.; Mt. Kearsarge, 3,251 ft,; Mt. Moat, North Peak, 3,200 ft.; Mt. Moat, South Peak, 2,700 ft.; Mt. Starr Kin-. 3,800 ft.; Mt. Pilot, 3,640 ft; Boy mountain, 2,278 ft,; Mt. Prospect. 2,090 ft.;Mt. Percy, North Peak, 3,336 ft.; Mt. Percy, South Peak, 3,140 ft.; Cape Horn, 2,735 ft.; Twin Mountain station, 1,446 ft.; White Mountain House, 1,556 ft.; Fabyan's, 1,571 ft.; White Mountain notch, 1,914 ft.; base of Mt. Washington, 2,668 f t. ; Cherry mountain, 3,500 ft.; Kandolph mountain, 3,043 ft.; Pliny mountain, 2,1-00 ft.; Mt. Eoyce, 2,600ft.; Pond of Safety, 1,973ft.; Lake of the Clouds (Blue Pond), 5,009 ft.; Jefferson mills, 1,180 ft.; Whitefield, 931 ft. ; Jewell hill, 1,467 ft.; Connecticut river at Dalton (high water), 832 ft.; Dalton station, 866 ft.; South Lancaster, 867 ft.; Lancaster, 870 ft. ; Groveton depot, 901ft.; Stark, 972 ft.; Milan summit, 1,087 ft.; Berlin falls, 1,035 ft.; Gorham 812 ft.; Shelburne, 723 ft.; Mt. Ingalls, 2,520 ft.; Mt. Forest, 1,950 ft.; North Stratford, 915 ft.: Stratford Hollow, 877 ft.; Sugarloaf, est,, 3,47o ft.; Mt. Lyon, 2,735 ft,; Dixville Notch, 1,858 ft.; Table rock, 2,454 ft.; Colebrook, 1,030 ft.; West Stew- artstowm, 1,055 ft.; Mt. Carmel, 3,711 ft ; Crescent mountain, 2,700 ft.; Connecticut lake, 1,618 ft.; Mt. Dustan, 2,575 ft.; Half Moon mountain, 2,526 ft.; South hill, 2,000 ft.; South peak, Kilkenny. 3,827 ft.; Green's ledge, 2,708 ft.
20 History of Coos County.
CHAPTER II.
GEOLOGY.
Rock Formations— The Age of Ice — Glacial Drift — Upper Till — Lower Till— Chaniplain Drift — Recent or Terrace Period — Modified Drift of Connecticut River, Connecticut Lake, to West Stewartstown— Upper Connecticut Valley — Karnes— Deltas.
*7~\OCK FORMATIONS.— The groups of rocks of Coos County, com- r*A mencing with the lowest, are the Acidic and Basic of the unstratified, X and the Azoic, Eozoic, and Paleozoic of the stratified rocks. The oldest, or bed rock, a very coarse granite or gneiss, conceded now to be of eruptive or volcanic origin, which varies its name with a different arrangement of the same constituents. Ledges of these rocks present large quadrangular patches of light-colored feldspar, varying from a fraction of an inch to three inches in length. Quartz and feldspar, with black and white mica, and some- times hornblende, are the constituent elements of these primitive or acidic rocks, which are known as sienite, granite, and porphyry. These funda- mental unstratified rocks form the vast volume of the White Mountains, and are the oldest rocks in the State. Nowhere in New England is there a better opportunity to read extensively in the " Book of Nature " than on the granite pages of our wild mountains and precipitous gorges. A mere mention of the rock formation is sufficient for our purpose here, but those who desire to pursue the subject from a love of science, will find that Prof. Hitchcock and his co-laborers have thoroughly and exhaustively treated it in that great work, "Geology of New Hampshire."
The Age of Ice. — It is of great importance that the Glacial and Modi- fied Drift periods be treated in detail, for, during the xYge of Ice, the removal of the great ice-sheet which extended above the top of Mt. Wash- ington, and the subsequent period, the surface, soil, and water-courses of the county were formed, and the conditions for civilized occupancy were prepared. It is well that all should become conversant with the causes which have brought about these conditions, and we make no apology for the space we have devoted to this purpose. The indications of a glacial period arc probably as well shown in New Hampshire as anywhere in the world. Underlying the modified drift are often found masses of rocks and earth mingled confusedly together, having neither stratification or any appearance of being deposited in water. These are the glacial drift or till. This drift frequently covers the slopes or lies on the summits of the highest hills and mountains. It contains bowlders of all sizes, up to thirty feet in diameter, which have nearly all been carried southward from their native ledges, and can be traced, in some instances, for a hundred miles, south- ward or southeastward. Wherever till occurs, the ledges have mostly been worn to a rounded form, and, if the rock be hard, it is covered with
Geology. 21
long scratches or strice, in the direction of the course taken by the bowl- ders. Geology now refers these to amoving ice-sheet, which overspread this continent from the north, and had formed of sufficieni thickness to cover even Mt. Washington. This ice-sheet was so much thicker at the north than in this latitude that its great weight pressed the ice steadily out- ward to the south-southeast. The termination of this ice-sheet in the Atlantic, southeast of New England, was probably like the great ice- wall of the Antarctic continent, along which Sir J. C. Ross sailed 450 miles, finding only one point low enough to allow the smooth white plain of the upper surface to be seen. This extended, dazzling white, as far as the eye could see. There was a long, continuous period of glacial action, with times of retreat and advance, but never a complete departure and return of a continental ice-sheet. The motion of this ice being caused by its own weight, must have been very slow indeed Over the highlands between the St. Lawrence river and Hudson bay the ice-sheet was three or four miles in thickness, over Greenland very much thicker, and over the White mountains it reached nearly or quite to the line of perpetual snow. The till, or coarse glacial drift, was made by the long-continued wearing and grinding of the ice-sheet. As this slowly advanced, fragments were torn from the ledges, held in the bottom of the ice, and worn by friction upon the surface over which it moved. This material, crushed below the ice into minute fragments or fine powder, is called the Loiver Till. While this was being made below the ice, large quantities of coarse and fine matter were swept away from hill-slopes and mountain-sides, and carried forward in the ice. As this melted much of this matter fell loosely on the surface, forming an unstratified deposit of gravel, earth and bowlders. This deposit is called the Upper Till. This usually is found above the Lower Till, the line of separation being at a distance of from two to twenty feet. The departure of the ice-sheet was attended by a rapid deposition of the abun- dant materials therein contained. The retreat of the ice-sheet was toward the northwest and north, and it is probable that its final melting took place mostly upon the surface, so that, at the last, great amounts of its deposits were exposed to the washing of its many streams. The finer particles were generally carried away, and the strong current of the glacial rivers trans- ported coarse gravel and bowlders of considerable size. When these streams entered the valley from which the ice had retreated, or their currents were slackened by less rapid descent, where the channel wasstill walled by ice, a deposition took place, in succession of coarse gravel, fine gravel, sand and fine silt or clay. These deposits filled the valleys, and increased in depth in the same way that additions are now made to the bottom-land or inter- vals of our large rivers by the floods of spring. They are called the Modi- fied Drift, and geology gives this name to the period from the departure of the ice sheet to the present. This modified drift occurs in almost every
22 History of Coos County.
valley of New Hampshire, and comprises the intervals, which are annually overflowed, and the successive terraces which rise in steps upon the sides of the valley, the highest often forming extensive plains. Dr. Dana has given the name of Champlain Period to the time of the deposition of the modified drift during the melting of the ice-sheet. During the Champlain period, the ice became molded upon the surface, by the process of destruc- tion, into great basins and valleys; and, at the last, the passages through which the melting waters passed off, came gradually to coincide with the depressions of the present surface. These lowest and warmest portions of the land were first freed from the ice; and, as the melted area slowly extended into the continental glacier, its vast floods found their outlet at the head of the advancing valley. (In the Connecticut valley this took place by a single channel bordered by ice- walls.) In these channels were depos- ited materials gathered by the streams from the melting glacier. By the low water of winter, layers of sand were formed, and by the strong cur- rents of summer, layers of gravel, often very coarse. These layers are irregularly bedded, here sand and there gravel accumulating, and inter- stratified without much order with each other. These, the oldest of our deposits of modified drift, are long ridges or intermixed short ridges and mounds, composed of very coarse water- worn gravel, or of alternate gravel and sand irregularly bedded, a section of which shows an arched or anti- clinal stratification. Wherever the ordinary fine alluvium occurs, it over- lies, or partly covers, these deposits. To these ridges geologists give the name of Karnes. The extensive level plains and high terraces bordering the New Hampshire rivers were also deposited in the Champlain period, as the open valleys become gradually filled with great depths of gravel, sand, and clay (alluvium), which were brought down by the glacier rivers from the melting ice-sheet, or washed from the till after the ice had retreated, and which were deposited in the same way, as by high floods at the present time. During the recent or terrace period, the rivers have cut deep and wide channels in this alluvium. The terraces mark heights, at which, in this work of erosion, they have left portions of their successive flood- plains. The Connecticut river, along the greater part of its course in this state, has excavated its ancient high flood-plain of the Champlain period to a depth of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet for a width varying from one-eighth mile to one mile.
The exploration of the modified drift in this state was principally made in IS 75, under direction of the state geologist, C. H. Hitchcock, by War- ren Upham. Esq., from whose valuable report we have condensed the above and extract the following : —
Modified Drift of Connecticut Biver, Connecticut Lake to West Stew- artstown. — For the first four miles below Connecticut lake the river has a rapid descent, with a southerly course. It then bends to the west and
Geology. 23
winds with a sluggish current through a narrow swamp three miles in length, which is the first aJluvium seen on the river. Its lower end is at the mouth of Dead water stream. One half mile farther down, at the out- let from Back lake, the road passes over a sand and gravel plain thirty feet above the river. This is material deposited in the Champlain period by the tributary stream. Much of it has been excavated during the terrace peri< >< 1 ; and till extends to the river on the opposite side in a very gentle, regular slope.
On Indian stream there is a large extent of low alluvial land, compris- ing several valuable farms. This consists mainly of a wide interval, from ten to fifteen feet high, which is bordered on the east by a narrow lateral terrace from thirty to forty feet above the river. In the next four miles scarcely anything but glacial drift and ledges is found. The scanty por- tions which may be called modified drift consist of very coarse, somewhat water worn gravel, in terraces from ten to forty feet above the river, which has probably in many places cut its channel to this depth through the till. About the mouth of Bishop's brook considerable low alluvium occurs, partly brought by the main river and partly by its tributary. Thence we have a narrow width of modified drift on the north side of the river to Hall's stream, which is bordered by an interval from five to ten feet, and two terraces, twenty and thirty-five feet, above the river. On the south side here, and on both sides for nearly two miles below, the river is closely bordered by hills, and no modified drift is seen.
The portion of the river which we have now described extends south- westerly about eighteen miles from the mouth of Connecticut lake. The descent in this distance is 583 feet. High wooded hills border the valley, which is destitute of modified drift for half the way. The largest alluvial area is on Indian stream; and the highest terraces are from thirty to forty feet above the river.
Upper Connecticut Valley. — Below West Stewartstown the course of the river is southerly, having a descent in nearly fifty miles, to the bead of Fifteen-mile falls, in Dalton, of only 205 feet; one-half of which takes place in nine miles between Columbia bridge and North Stratford. Along this whole distance the modified drift is continuous, and, including both sides, is usually a half to a mile and a half wide. It is very simple, having two heights, and consists of the present flood-plain, bordered by remnants of that which filled the valley in the Champlain period. The former is about ten feet above low water, being annually overflowed by floods of spring. This would be called bottom-land in the western United States. In Xew England it is commonly termed interval; but along the Connect i< ut river it is frequently known as meadow. On all our large rivers this low- est terrace has a firm and well-drained surface, much different from the marshy areas bordering small streams, to which the name meadow is
24 History of Coos County.
restricted in other parts of the state. It is the most valuable portion of these alluvial lands, having a more finely-pulverized and more fertile soil than that of the higher terraces. The ancient flood-plain is here repre- sented by a lateral terrace from forty to one hundred and twenty feet above the river, usually remaining at both sides, and in many places forming considerable plains.
From West Stewartstown to Colebrook the only alluvium of import- ance on the New Hampshire side is the interval; but small remnants of the upper terrace are found, especially where there is a tributary stream. On the Vermont side the upper terrace, composed of sand or fine gravel, is usually well shown, having a nearly constant but small elevation of forty to sixty feet above the river, with which it slopes. It appears that this formerly had possession of the whole valley, and that the channelling of the river has swept it away from the area now occupied by the interval or meadows. Portions of it still remain, entirely surrounded by the low flood-plain. Such a plateau may be seen in Canaan, nearly opposite the south side of Stewartstown. The upper terrace and its isolated remnant have both a height of forty feet above the river, while the lower level is only fifteen feet in height. Northeast from this, in Stewartstown, a rivu- let has effected a like result on a small scale in the meadow, cutting a chan- nel wholly around a small area which still preserves the height of the rest of the meadow.
Karnes. — At Colebrook we find an interesting gravel-ridge or kame portions of which remain north of the junction of Beaver brook and Mohawk river, but most noticeably west of the village, extending nearly a mile parallel with the river. Its height is about seventy feet above the river, and fifty above the low alluvium on each side. Its material is the same as that of the long kame farther south in this valley, being princi- pally coarse, water- worn gravel, with abundant pebbles six inches to one foot in diameter. This ridge was deposited in the glacial channel of the river which flowed from the ice-sheet at its final melting.
We must refer to a similar cause, the slightly modified drift in Leming- ton, just northwest from Colebrook bridge; in Columbia, the high gravel terrace north of Sims' stream; thence for a mile southward the moraine- like, level-topped or irregular drift, slightly modified, at about 100 feet above the river; and the coarse drift ridge on the east side of the river a half mile above Columbia bridge. The last is a distinct ridge, one-third of a mile long, parallel with the river, and from fifty to seventy-five feet above it, being from twenty-five to fifty feet above the adjoining lowland. This may have been a medial moraine. It contains many angular rock- fragments from two to three feet in size, and seems scarcely modified, appearing like portions of the kames along Merrimack river.
Between Columbia bridge and North Stratford the descent is rapid and
Geology. 25
the terraces are irregular. At Columbia bridge the highest alluvial banks are forty-eight feet above the rive), at North Stratford, 119. Where the river now descends 101 feet the stratified drift of the valley shows a slope of ouly thirty feet, or about three feet to a mile. After we pass this steep and narrow portion, and enter a wide valley again where the river is compara- tively level, we find the upper terrace falling much more rapidly, or nine feet to a' mile. At Groveton it has again descended to a height fifty feet above the river. As we approach Fifteen-mile falls the upper terrace slopes very slowly down to the lower and they can scarcely be distinguished as separate heights below South Lancaster. The wide river-pJain here rises gradually from five to ten to perhaps twenty or thirty feet above the river.
In Stratford and Brunswick both heights of the alluvium are well shown, the highway being on the upper terrace and the railroad on the meadow. The former is about 100 feet above the river, and at Brunswick springs, and for much of the way through Stratford, is from one fourth to one-third of a mile wide. At Stratford Hollow depot the railroad has cut through a narrow spur of this terrace, which escaped erosion by water. Here the alluvium of the main valley has been excavated into secondary terraces by Bog brook. In the south part of Stratford, and in Northum- berland, the meadow or interval occupies more space than the terrace, which has its greatest extent in the level, swampy plain west of Groveton Junction.
Deltas. — At Lancaster the upper terrace of Connecticut river is only fifteen or twenty feet above the interval. The only higher modified drift has been brought down by tributaries. Part of Lancaster village is built on one of these deltas, formed by Israel's river on its south side, fifty feet above the terrace of the main valley. This delta sloped rapidly westward, and formerly occupied the whole area of the village; a portion of it, twenty feet lower than the former, remains at the cemetery, opposite the court- house. Similar deposits also occur two miles southwest from Lancaster, and on John's river.
Between South Lancaster and Fifteen-mile-falls the broad river-plain is unterraced. It seems probable that a lake existed here while the original high plain northward was being deposited. *
When this was channelled out by the river, so as to leave only terraces as we now see them, the materials excavated were sufficienl to fill up the lake. It would be interesting to know the depth of the stratified drift in this basin; it is probably deeper than the height of the highest modified drift northward above the rivar
Kame-like materials of small extent were noticed at North Stratford,
*The Connecticut river, geologists consider, left this lake by a channel which passed up the present valley of John's river to Whitefleld, from there across to Lower Ammonoosuc below \Ving Road, and struck its present bed at Wells River, by following down the Aimuonoosuc valley.
26 History of Coos County.
forming the high bank on the east side of the railroad, one-fourth mile southeast from the station, and in Guildhall, about two miles north from Lancaster bridge. A remarkable moraine of granite bowlders occurs in Stratford, covering a large area of hillside just above the upper terrace, one mile south from what was Beattie's station. Two miles northwest from Groveton a ridge of till, from sixty to 100 feet above the river, projects half a mile westerly into the valley, or half way across it, appearing like a ter- minal moraine. Horse-shoe pond, on the northwest side of this ridge, occu- pies a portion of a deserted river- channel. These ancient river-beds are frequently shown by such ponds, commonly called sloughs or moats, of which Baker's pond, near Lancaster, is another example.
CHAPTER III.
TOPOGRAPHY.
The Water Sheds — Carriage Roads— Lumber Roads — The Water Basins — The Streams, Con- necticut, Magalloway, Androscoggin— Source of the Connectirut — Description andScenery — Second Lake, Connecticut Lake — Tributaries of the Connecticut— Lake Magalloway — Magalloway River — Androscoggin River — Their Tributaries— Country along the Maine Line — Bogs and Peat Swamps.
FROM Professor Huntington's elaborate description we extract : The extreme northern part of New Hampshire is covered by a continuous primeval forest; and the surface of the country is broken by undulat- ing ridges, which here and there rise to mountain heights. In these forests, almost on the boundary of Quebec, is the source of the Connecticut river; and in the extreme northeast corner of the state is a small lake, which is the principal source of the Magalloway river. Scarcely anything more is known to the dwellers on the banks of the Connecticut as to its source, than they know of the source of the Nile. Hence a somewhat minute de- scription will be given.
Water-Sheds — Along the water-shed that separates the headwaters of the Connecticut and Magalloway from those of the St. Lawrence, runs the boundary-line between New Hampshire and Quebec. Although its general direction from Crown monument to the head of Hall's stream is a little south of west, yet so crooked is it that in its course it runs towards nearly every point of the compass, making the distance nearly twice as great as it is in a direct line between these points. At Crown monument the height of the water-shed is 2,568 feet. It descends gently for a short distance as
Topography 27
we go west, but soon rises again, until, near Lake Magalloway, it has an elevation of 2,812 feet. The summit of the ridge here is 587 feel above the lake just mentioned. Then, northwest of the lake, there is quite a gap, but it soon rises again into a mountain ridge. But two miles west of the lake is another depression: in this rises the most northwesterly branch of the Magalloway. West of this the ridge rises again, and forms a moun- tain range which extends west two miles to the gap near Third lake. Extending south from this height of land is the water-shed between the Connecticut and Magalloway. The gap at Third lake has a height of 2, 140 feet. Then there is a slight rise, and again a depression of about the same height as the last. Then the water-shed rises again to the summit of Mt Prospect, and an elevation of 2,62!) feet. It then descends, but continues with varying undulations, until, near the head of Hall's stream, it spreads out into an immense plateau.
The water-shed that separates the waters of the Connecticut from the Magalloway, Androscoggin, and Saco rivers, runs as follows: Starting from the boundary of Quebec, five miles southwest of Crown monument, and not far from three miles east of Third lake, the line runs nearly south four miles; then it turns almost directly east, and extends to Mt. Kent, on the boundary between New Hampshire and Maine; thence it follows the boundary to Mt. Carmel; thence it runs a little south of west, to a point two miles south of Second lake; thence south to the Magalloway mountain; thence it follows a ridge, west, nearly a mile; thence it runs southwest to Mt. Pisgah ; then it bends still to the west, and reaches its western limit near the Diamond ponds in the eastern part of Stewarts- town; thence it runs southeast to Dixville notch; thence a little east of south, through the western part of Millsfield; thence south through Milan, Berlin and Randolph; thence over the White Mountains to the Notch. Along this water-shed is some of the highest land in New Hampshire; but there are occasional gaps where roads are, or can be, constructed. Some of these passes are well known. Going north from the Net eh. the first is in Randolph: the next is where the Grand Trunk railway passes; then there is the road through Dixville notch; but north of this no carriage road has ever been constructed, — and there are only three winter roads, and these for lumbering purposes. The first of these roads crosses the Con- necticut three and a half miles south of Connecticut lake, and runs south- east. After passing the height of land, it strikes one of the brandies of the Swift Diamond, and following this, it extends down to the Magalloway. The second road begins at the last settlement in Pittsburg, crosses the Con- necticut one mile north of Connecticut lake, and strikes the Magalloway four miles south of Parmachenee lake. It is several }rears since either of these roads was used, but through the evergreen forests they are as dis- tinct as when first made, — yet through the deciduous trees the underbrush
2S History of Coos County.
has so obstructed the way that it is almost impossible to pass, even on foot. Along either of these routes there is nothing to hinder the construction of a carriage-road, and probably along the most northern, one will never be called for; but it may be opened again as a "tote" road when lumbering is carried on along the Upper Magalloway. The third, a "tote'1 road to the Magalloway by the way of Second lake, is the one latest used, and strikes farther up the river. (The supplies now are mostly taken from Berlin up the Androscoggin and the Magalloway.) The water shed itself, and the country east, is broken up into irregular groups of mountains and hills, but no two groups have exactly the same kind of rocks. The axis of all the higher groups is either gneiss or schist.
The Water Basins. — The northern portion of the water basin of the Connecticut, the Magalloway, the Androscoggin and the Saco is embraced in this section. North of latitude 45°, it embraces nearly the whole of that of the Connecticut. West of the Connecticut river, and north of latitude 45°, there are three nearly parallel ridges. The first, going west, is somewhat irregular, and is cut off where Perry's stream turns east and flows into the Connecticut. But two, — one between Perry's and Indian streams, and the other between Indian and HalFs streams, — are more uniform, and they have a mean height of about 600 feet above the streams. South of latitude 45°, and east of the Con- necticut, the ridges are everywhere irregular. North Hill, in Clarksville, rises 1,971 feet where the road crosses. South Hill, in Stewartstown, is 2,000 feet, ascending to Jackson. In Colebrook, and below, the high ridges branching from the water-shed have generally a westerly trend. South of Sims' stream, the ridge extends nearly to the Connecticut, as, also, the one in Stratford, south of Lyman brook. Below North Stratford the ridges run more to the south. In Northumberland, south of the Upper Ammo- noosuc, they again run more nearly west, and continue thus until we reach Dalton, where the principal ridge runs north and south.
Seven miles south of Crown monument the water-shed touches the boundary line of Maine. The portion of the water basin of the Magallo- way north of this is a level tract of country, penetrated by spurs from the boundary line towards Quebec. South of the point mentioned above, the water basin of the Magalloway occupies a large tract of country in New Hampshire. It is everywhere broken into irregular mountain ridges, but these have generally a southern trend until we reach the Swift Diamond in Dartmouth College grant. South of this stream there is a high contin- uous ridge from Dixville notch to the Magalloway; then there is a high ridge that runs south, parallel with the stream last mentioned. The tri- angular area embraced by the Swift Diamond, Clear stream, and the Magalloway and Androscoggin, is a succession of hills and mountain ridges. The high point north of Dixville notch forms the apex of the tri-
Topography. 29
angle; and Mt. Dustan is in the northeast angle. South of Clear stream the hills are, if possible, more irregular in their contour than those north- ward.
The Streams. — The principal streams are the Connecticut, the Magal- loway, and the Androscoggin. Almost on the very northern boundary of New Hampshire, and nearly on the very summit of the dividing ridge that sep- arates the waters of the St. Lawrence from those that flow southward, there is a small lake containing only a few square acres; and this is the source of the Connecticut river. It has an elevation of 2,551 feet, and is only sev- enty-eight below the summit of Mount Prospect; and so remote is it from the habitations of men that it is rarely seen. A place more solitary is not known in northern New Hampshire. Surrounded as it is by dense forests of evergreen, you can see only these and the waters of the lake. Almost the only sound that relieves the monotony of the place is the croaking of the frogs, and this must be their paradise. A few steps to the summit of Mt. Prospect, and we can overlook thousands and thousands of square miles of forests in Quebec, while in the extreme distance to the northwest can be seen the habitations of men. Southward the view is not extensive. This lake is half a mile directly south of the boundary, and has an area of three-fourths of a square mile, and its height is 2,038 feet. It is trapezoidal in shape, and has its greatest width in the south, while its northern shore is not more than a quarter of a mile in length. Its outlet is at the southeast corner, and its width is eight feet, and its depth six or seven inches. Besides the spruce and firs and cedars of immense size, it has a sub- Alpine vegetation. Labrador tea, the led inn pahtstre, is found in abundance along its shores. In early summer, before the swarms of insects come, it is charming to stand upon its border, when not a ripple disturbs its placid waters, and the trees are mirrored along its shores. On every side except the south, the hills, which rise to mountain heights, approach almost to its very shores. The Connecticut, which is its outlet, is nowhere remark- ably rapid. About five miles from the lake it receives a tributary from the east, the principal branch of which rises near the boundary. This stream is nearly as large as that into which it flows. A mile and a half from where it receives this tributary, it flows into Second lake, lis area is about oneand three-fourths square miles, and it is two miles and three-fourths in length, and in the widest part is a little more than a mile, and I he heighl above the sea is 1,882 feet. It is one of the most beautiful of our northern lakes. The graceful contour of its shores, the symmetry of its projecting points, the stately growth of its primeval forests, (he carpel of green that is spread along its border and extends through the long vista of the woods, the receding hills and the distant mountains, presenl a combination of the wild, the grand, and the beautiful that is rarely seen. Near its northern bor- der, besides the Connecticut, it receives two t ributaries, one from 1 lie north-
30 History of Coos County.
east and one from the northwest. Its outlet is on the west side, near its southern limit; it is forty feet in width, and has a depth of eighteen inches. Twenty rods from the lake it has a fall of eighteen feet or more; then its descent is quite gradual, but forms here and there deep eddies. A mile from the lake it becomes more rapid, and rushes down between precipitous walls of rock in a series of wild cascades, which continue for half a mile. It receives two tributaries from the west before it flows into Connecticut lake. Here we find a sheet of water exceedingly irregular in its outline. Its length is four miles, and its greatest width two and three-fourths, and it contains not far from three square miles. Its general direction is east and west, but near its outlet it turns towards the south. None of these lakes contain islands to any extent. Second lake has only one, and this has two, but they are very near the southeast shore. On the west shore of this lake the country is settled, and the grassy pastures extend down to its border; but for the most part it is still surrounded by a primeval forest. As many of the neighboring hills are crowned with deciduous trees, par- ticularly the maple, in autumn, when the frost comes and these have put on their crown of beauty, of crimson and scarlet, of yellow and gold, and mingled as they often are with the dark foliage of the spruce and fir, we have a scene which, in brilliancy and beauty, is rarely if ever excelled. There is another element characteristic of this high elevation, for the lake is 1,619 feet above the sea. It often happens, when the forest has put on this robe of beauty, that all the neighboring heights are of immaculate whiteness from the frozen mist that clings to every spray of the evergreen foliage. Embraced in the picture are the blue waters of the lake, the belt of deciduous forests, with their brilliant, gorgeous colors, the dark bands of the evergreens, and the snow-white summits- The water at the outlet flows over a rocky barrier, the stream falling abruptly nearly thirty seven feet. The fall is quite rapid for two miles and a half; then the flow is more gen- tle for about four miles; then it becomes more rapid again, and continues thus until after it passes West Stewartstown. It is then nowhere a slug- gish stream, and has rapids in many places until it gets below the falls of Northumberland; then it is the most placid of streams until it reaches the Fifteen-mile falls, which begin in Dalton. The fall from Connecticut lake to Lancaster is 785 feet. In Pittsburg, below Connecticut lake, the Con- necticut river receives three large tributaries, — Ferry's stream, which rises near Third lake, and has a rapid descent, including two falls, three and five miles from its confluence, a mile and a half from the lake; Indian stream, which rises on the boundary, has a very rapid descent for five or six miles, when it becomes a very quiet stream until it flows into the Con- necticut about eleven miles from the lake; Hall's stream, which also rises on the boundary, and is the dividing line between New Hampshire and Quebec. Besides these there are several smaller streams. The principal
Topography. ;:i
streams from the east ai^e Cedar stream in Pittsburg, Labrador brook and Dead Water stream in Clarksville, the Mohawk in Colebrook, Sim'sstream and Lyman brook in Columbia, Bog brook in Stratford, the Upper Ammo- noosuc in Northumberland, Israel's river in Lancaster, and John's river in Dalton.
The Magalloway has its principal source in Lake Magalloway, about a mile and a half southwest of Crown monument. This lake is one of the most romantic in New Hampshire. It has an elevation of 2,225 feet above the sea. Its area is not far from 320 square acres, and is surrounded by hills that rise to mountain heights, the elevation on the northeast being 587 feet above the lake, and from its summit we look immediately down upon it. The stream which is its outlet forms, a few steps from the lake, a beautiful cascade some twenty feet in height. Of all the men who have hunted in these forests, I have found only one who had ever seen this lake. If it were within the reach of travel, it would no doubt attract many per- sons, for in wildness and grandeur it is not surpassed. Its outlet is soon augmented by streams both from New Hampshire and Maine.
The Magalloway, soon after it enters the state of Maine, forms one of the peculiar streams in this northern country. It flows for a time with a rapid current, and then for a long distance it is the most sluggish of streams, often deeper than it is wide, while on either side there are numer- ous ponds and bogs. Parmachenee lake, into which it flows, is about the size of Connecticut lake. For four miles below Parmachenee the stream is very rapid, and then, for almost the entire distance to Escahos falls, the descent is slight. Upper Magalloway settlement lies above the falls. The Magalloway enters New Hampshire in Dartmouth College grant. It flows about a mile and then goes into Maine, but enters New Hampshire again in the northeast corner of Wentworth's Location, and flows into the Androscoggin a mile and a quarter from Umbagoglake. Although the river is very crooked yet the water is of sufficient depth so that a steamer runs up nearly to the Maine line, and down the Androscog- gin to Errol dam; below this, the Androscoggin is for the most part quite rapid, and, in the sixty-six miles of this river in New Hampshire, the fall is 464 feet. The tributaries of the Magalloway and Androscoggin from New Hampshire are the Little Magalloway, four and a half miles south of Parmachenee lake, and the Swift Diamond, which has its source in the Diamond ponds in Stewartstown, and has a tributary, the Dead Diamond, which rises two and a half miles southeast of Second lake, and flows into the Swift Diamond a mile and a half from its confluence with the Magal- loway in Dartmouth College grant. Clear stream flows into the Andros- coggin in Errol. In Gorham the tributaries are Moose and Peabody rivers, the latter of which rises in the Great gulf between Mt. Washington and Mt. Adams. A considerable tributary, Wild river, rises in Bean's Purchase.
32 History of Coos County.
but flows into the Androscoggin in Maine. Besides these from the west, the Androscoggin has three tributaries in New Hampshire from the east, the Molichewort in Errol, and the Chick walnepy and Stearns brooks in Milan.
Country Along the Maine Line. - - The northern extremity of New Hampshire is a mere point of upland — sterile and comparatively destitute of lumber of value. In those townships formed from the Carlisle grant large spruces are now standing, and the different branches of the Magal- loway are so located as to afford for them egress without excessive expense.
The tracts on Stearns brook and Chickwalnepy river in Success, afford good settling land. Considerable pine is still standing upon the township. Standing upon Mt. Ingalls the eye takes in a valuable tract of this land and the adjoining town of Riley in Maine, which, situated as they are, near the Grand Trunk Railroad, and possessing the advantages of the Androscoggin, besides excellent water-power, must at no distant clay be of increased value. No better land can be found than some of that in the towns of Chatham and Stowe, while more northerly the farms in Errol and Wentworth's Location, possess natural advantages, which, together with those of the rich bottom meadows on the Diamond in the second grant to Dartmouth College, are of a high order. Although the general surface of the ground along the line is uneven and broken, yet there are large tracts of fertile lands which must at some period yield a handsome remuneration to their holders. The eastern portion of New Hampshire lying north of Mt. Royce, is drained by the Androscoggin and Magalloway rivers, the former of which, after serving as the outlet of those great lakes extending from Umbagog far into the wilderness to the northeast, debouches from this lake, receiving, one mile below, tribute from the Magalloway, a stream equal in size to the Connecticut at Hanover, which, taking its rise on the boundary range, drains that whole water-shed north and west of Umbagog.
The soil along the valley of the Magalloway. Androscoggin, Diamond and their branches, is rich and alluvial. The highlands are characterized by an argillaceous formation entirely different from the granitic structures of the White and other mountain ranges in our State. Mineral wealth exists in the township of Riley, Success and Shelburne, and probably along that portion of the line lying between Lake Umbagog and the Androscog- gin, at the latter town. Spruces of fine proportions were frequently met in large tracts north of Umbagog, while the maple, the birch, the beech, and those other forest trees indigenous to our latitude flourish in regal lux- uriance in the forests north. The cedar is found in great quantities on the low lands around Umbagog. In fine, the country and its natural charac- teristics are such as to warrant the belief that it will be at some time reclaimed from its present state and yield ample remuneration for the labor bestowed.
Topography. 33
Bogs and Swamps. — Bogs and peat swamps are very numerous in the northern part of this county. These are often of greal extenl and found in every town. Sometimes they present a broad surface, without a tree or shrub, except along their borders, the whole surface being covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. One of the largest of these bogs is at the head of Bog brook, a mile and a half west of Second lake, and has an area of fifteen or twenty acres. West of Perry stream there is another extensive bog, directly west of the one previously described. Near the head of Perry stream there are several, more or less occupied by shrubs and trees; here and there a hackmatack or larch rises from the surface covered with lau- rels, Labrador tea, and other swamp plants. North of Second lake is a very extensive swamp where, besides the laurel, Labrador tea and larch, we fre- quently find the cedar and alder. A short distance south of Connecticut lake are two small open bogs, on which cranberries grow abundantly. The peat here is not more than six feet in depth. One of the most extensive swamps in the State is in the Dartmouth College grant. The distance across it, north and south, is about three hundred rods, and the distance east and west is much greater. Several interesting peat deposits exist along the Androscoggin. One in Milan contains many well-preserved trunks of fallen trees, principally tamarack. In Shelburne the reclamation of a peat-swamp has been quite successfully carried on.
These bogs when drained and dressed with sand or sand and lime are excellent soils, very productive in hay and oats. Many of them may in this way be reclaimed, for, in time, the peat will be used as fuel and as a fertilizer. Peat makes a valuable fertilizer. It absorbs and retains water and ammonia, promotes the disintegration of the rocks, renders light soils more productive, and acts valuably in other ways. Those who have experi- mented with it, and compared its properties with ordinary stable manure, find that it gives, in a certain quantity, an equal amount of lime and nitro- gen and one-third more organic matter, but is deficient in magnesia, potash, phosphoric and sulphuric acids. These elements may be given by add i ng to one hundred pounds of fresh peat one pound of commercial potash, or five pounds of unleached wood ashes, one pound of good superphosphate, or one pound each of bone-dust and gypsum.
In view of the small amount and the cheapness of the materials to bring peat to the fertilizing standard of stable manure, it would appear as if our farmers could greatly enrich their lands at small expense.
34 History of Coos County
CHAPTER IV.
SCENERY OF COOS.
Pittsburg — Crown Monument— Megantic Mountain— Head waters of St Francis and Chaudiere Kivers— Along the New Hampshire and Quebec Boundary— Third Lake— Mt. Carmel— Mt Agiz- coos — Cascades— Little Diamond Falls— Hoggins Branch — Dixville Notch— " The Old Man of Dixville" — The Flume — Cascade Brook — Huntington Cascade — Scenery of Errol — West Stewarts- tow n to North Stratford — Groveton — Stark — Milan — Lancaster — Jefferson — Randolph — Dalton — Shelburne — Gorham.
PROFESSOR HUNTINGTON says that the lovers of the grand, wild and picturesque in nature, will especially delight in the primeval for- ests of Coos county. A journey of a day and a half in Pittsburg, from Connecticut lake through an unbroken forest, will take one to Crown monument, which is at the extreme northeast corner of the state. It is on the water- shed between the waters of the St. Lawrence and the streams running south into the Atlantic, and it is so called because a monument was placed there by the commissioners who established the boundary between the states and the provinces. From a ridge of land 2,568 feet above the level of the sea, where, looking northward, the land slopes toward the St. Lawrence, and southward, toward the Atlantic, the view must be extensive. In either direction we look over only illimitable for- ests, except that in the dim distance, a little to the east of north, there is a small settlement, probably at the north end of Megantic lake, — otherwise the view embraces a boundless forest. Immediately north, the slope is quite gradual, and, as it stretches northward, the country seems like a plain extending to the horizon. To the northeast is Saddle mountain, with hills and ridges, to the north wrest, Megantic mountain rises as from an immense plain. Embraced in the view- northward are the headwaters of the St. Francis and Chaudiere rivers, while east and west is the high ridge that forms the water-shed. The view directly south is limited, for a moun- tain ridge runs from the Magallow^ay directly west into New Hampshire. To the southwest, the high ridge that encircles the basin where the many branches of the Magalloway have their source, obstructs the view in that direction. To the southeast there is nothing, as far as the eye can see, but high ridges and mountain peaks, which follow each other in rapid succes- sion until in the far distance they seem to pierce the sky.
If we should follow along the boundary between New Hampshire and Quebec, there w~ould be many points where wre should wish to stop and view the grand panorama spread out before us. Two of the most remark- able outlooks we will notice. Not far from three and a half miles south-
Scenery of Coos. 35
west from Crown monument there is a point of land 2,812 feel in height. The distant view is not unlike that from Crown monument,but the immedi- ate surroundings are much more grand; among the attractions is a moun- tain lake, which lies in a depression to the west 800 feet below the sum- mit, and it is so near that we seem to look directly clown upon it. Another point of interest is in the vicinity of Third lake. The view northward embraces a continuous forest, extending fifty miles or more; and in the distance, Megan tic mountain stands massive and alone. The only habita- tions to be seen are one or two houses in Ditton (Canada).
South, half a mile distant, we look down on Third lake. On a bright day in early summer, when the stately forests are mirrored in its clear waters, it presents a scene of quiet beauty that cannot be surpassed. Gen- erally the view southward is not extensive, but on some of the higher points we can overlook the nearer hills, and some of the peaks of the White Mountains can be seen.
Mt. Carmel. — Mt. Carmel rises 3,711 feet above the level of the sea. It is on the line of New Hampshire and Maine, and consists of a long ridge, on which there are two points of nearly equal height, half or three-quar- ters of a mile apart; from the point east there is a gradual slope for half a mile, then the descent is almost perpendicular down to the debris formed from the fallen rocks. Before we reach this precipitous height, there is a ridge that branches off and runs towards the northeast; and along the east side of this there are perpendicular walls of rock. As Mt Carmel is some- what isolated, the view from the summit is extensive.
Immediately northward is the great basin where rise the many streams that unite to form the Magalloway. Beyond is the ridge that forms the boundary between the states and the provinces, and, through gaps in this, we can see a peak far to the northeast. To the east the view is fine, while near at hand you look down into the valley of the Magalloway. Here you catch glimpses of the stream, and, save here and there, where the water reflects the sunlight, the valley is a dark forest of evergreen. Eastward from the summit of Mt. Carmel we can see far beyond the valley, and such an array of hills, ridges, and mountain is rarely seen. Hero a mountain, irregular in outline and broken abruptly off ; there two, similar in shape, while beyond, and farther south, is a mountain summit that has a grace- ful contour in its curving lines of beauty. Southward for twenty miles the view is unobstructed down the Magalloway; then from the east, Mt. Agiz- coos, with its bare summit, extends partly across the valley. Southward, sixty-five miles distant from our view-point, wo can see the dim yet per- fect outline of the White Mountains. In some respects the view to the west and southwest is the most interesting. Here is a succession of undu- lating ridges and hills, which, with their shadows and ever-changing color, give a peculiar charm to the scene; then, in the midst of the forests we can
36 History of Coos County.
see the Connecticut lakes. There is not probably another mountain-peak in New Hampshire of this height, where oue feels so entirely away from the habitations of men. In every direction, the whole country, embracing thousands of square miles, is one vast wilderness, except at the outlet of Connecticut lake. From the summit of Magalloway mountain, three miles east from Connecticut lake, there is a fine view of mountains, hills and lakes.
Cascades. — Though not numerous in the northern part of Coos county, there are two or three cascades that should be mentioned. On one of the western branches of Indian stream, near the north line of the Colebrook Academy grant, there is a cascade which, on account of its rare beauty, deserves especial notice. It is in a deep ravine, and on either side there is a, dense forest of evergreens. Here the extreme heat of summer is unknown, for the coolness of the water tempers the atmosphere. The cascade has a height of forty feet, — the first twelve feet the water is broken by jutting rocks; for the remaining twenty-eight it flows over a ledge, which has a descent of sixty degrees. At the top the stream is four feet wide, and at the base twenty feet. The pure water, the white spray, the dark, moss-covered rocks, the cool, delicious atmosphere, the shimmering light through the trees, the mossy banks of the stream, the perfect stillness, broken only by the music of the waters and the songs of birds, form an attractive combi- nation.
East from Connecticut lake, and southeast from the summit of Magal- loway mountain, the Little Diamond falls in a series of rapid, wide cascades. The rapids extend for half a mile; and the fall in that distance is 150 feet, with perpendicular falls of from three to ten feet. Southwest of the same mountain there is a fall on Huggins's branch. There are rapids for half a mile before we come to the falls; then a slope of fifty degrees and a fall of fifteen feet; then a fall of twelve feet perpendicular; then a slope of forty- two degrees and a fall of about forty feet, confined between nearly perpen- dicular strata of rock, and the water finally rests in a great basin at the base. Just below the stream turns east, with a fall of ten feet. This is a beautiful cascade, and well worthy of a visit.
Dixville Notch is one of the most remarkable exhibitions of natural ■scenery in the state, equaling, if not surpassing the White Mountain notch in picturesque grandeur. The angular and precipitous appearance of the rocks, rising hundreds of feet, almost perpendicularly, on either side, is strikingly different from the rounded and water worn appearance of most of the crystalline rocks throughout the northern part of the United States, and seems to come nearer to the scenery of the Alps than anything else in New England. This notch is easy of access, being only ten miles from Colebrook village; and although the highest point in the road through the notch is 830 feet above that village, yet the ascent is so gradual that few
Scenery of Coos. 37
would believe they had reached so great an elevation. It surpasses most other notches in the vertical height of its walls, one point being 560 feet above the highest part of the road. Sonic of the highest precipitous masses stand out in bold relief from the sides. Table rock projects 167 feet, while the ragged, serrated edges every where form projecting points. One can easily imagine that he sees here the turrets and spires of some ruined cathe- dral, or the battlements and towers of castles of the medieval age; or, as one stands on Table rock, he can imagine that a bridge once spanned the chasm below, and that these masses of rock standing in the debris are the ruins of piers on which it might have been built. The rock here differs in cleavage from that of similar composition elsewhere in New Hampshire. It splits in huge longitudinal fragments; and Nature has here quarried posts that equal in just proportion those wrought by human hands.
On Table rock the view embraces a wide sweep of country. One can see quite a distance in Maine, a part of Vermont, and, when clear, places in Quebec can be recognized; and from Table rock the view down through the Notch is always grand. After passing the height of the Notch, going east on the right, we can see a profile, — '' The Old Man of Dixville," — which has very fair proportions. On the left, still farther east, there is an excel- lent representation of the walls and turrets of a ruined castle.
The " Flume " shows itself on the north side of the road, thirty or forty rods back in the forest. It is a chasm, in granite, about fifteen feet wide and fifteen rods long; and the stream running through it falls about thirty feet in cascades. In one place there is a pot-hole seven feet deep, with a diameter of four feet. The granite is divided try two vertical sets of seams or joints, so that large columnar blocks could be taken out without quar- rying. The excavated rock seems to have been a trap-dyke, part of which may still be seen. Nearly opposite the Flume, but farther down the val- ley, is "Cascade brook," a branch of Clear stream. Upon this may be seen a series of cascades for more than half a mile. They were named ' ' Hunt- ington cascades" by the New Hampshire Press Association. The top of the most interesting cascade is 274 feet above its base. Here the stream is divided by a trap-dyke two feet wide; and the water falls on each side a distance of forty feet. The rock here is the same argillaceous schist as in the Notch; besides there is an interesting trap-dyke, containing glassy feldspar and basaltic hornblende, which, Dr. Jackson says, resembles more a volcanic rock than any other found in the state. Most other notches we can see a long distance before wereach them, hut here we have scarcely any intimation that there is such a vast rent in the mountain until we are almost in the very gap itself.
Errol. — In Errol there is one of the grandest outlooks in New Hamp- shire, which can be seen while driving along the road. In the distance are the grandest of mountain summits. After crossing the Androscoggin.
38 History of Coos County.
from Errol Dam to Upton, Me., the road winds along and over the ridge of land between that river and Umbagog lake. As we ascend the hill the grandeur of the scenery begins to unfold itself. On our right, and a little south of west, is the Androscoggin, which pours along over rapids until it rests in a quiet bay, where the river widens to receive the waters of Clear stream. After leaving the bay, the river becomes rapid again, and pours along between the hills, and soon is lost to sight. Westward, among the hills, is Aker's pond, and, following up the valley of Clear stream, the view is limited by the high ridge running through Dixville. A little farther south we look over the hills in Errol and Millsfield, and we can see a few peaks in Odell. To the southwest there is nearly thirty miles of unbroken wilderness. For a distant view, I know not where the White Mountains can be seen to such advantage as just south of this height of land; neither do I know of any distant point where they appear so high.
On the Connecticut there are many places where the scenery is enchant- ing. At almost every turn in the road, from West Stewartstown to North Stratford, there is something that attracts the attention, — a mountain of grand proportions, a hill with graceful outline, the trees, the forests, or the river, as it runs through grassy meadows or along a wooded hillside. There is some remarkable scenery in the vicinity of Groveton. Coming from the south towards the village, Percy peaks will attract the attention for their symmetrical form and color. The village itself is surrounded by mountains. The summits of those that are farthest away are scarcely more than ten miles distant, while Mt. Lyon, on the south, is not more than four. Although the hills and mountains are so near, yet, on account of the broad interval of the Connecticut, we do not feel as though the out- look had too narrow limits, but rather that in the whole view there is a beautiful symmetry. It is especially grand to watch the moon as it rises above the Pilot hills, breaks through the passing cloud, and throws its gentle light across the forests. There are hills on every side, climbing which we have distant views. From Percy peaks, northward, we have forests and wooded summits; southeast, the White hills rise in all their grandeur; south, we have the long line of the Pilot hills; and, a little west of south, we look down the valley of the Connecticut, and, in the distance, Moosilauke rises against the sky.
The summit of the south peak is easily gained from the southeast, but the western slope of this, as well as the north peak, is so steep that it would require an expert in climbing to be able to reach the summit of either peak from that direction.
Stark is a town of mountains and hills. Approaching Stark station, either from the east or the west, the points of the mountains from the opposite sides of the valley, project by each other so that there seems to be an impassable barrier across the valley; but we know that the stream
Scenery of Coos. 39
must pass through the mountains, and Stark station is in the gap of 1 lie mountain through which it passes. On the north is a perpendicular wall of rock forming a vast amphitheatre, while on the opposite side of the val- ley, and a little east, is Mill mountain. Although in every other din ction surrounded by high mountains, yet, looking a little west of south, we can see in the distance some of the high peaks of the Pilot range.
West Milan. — Here the peaks of the White Mountains begin to appear, and besides, there is quite an array of mountains westward. In the south- east part of Milan, near the line of Berlin, and about a mile east of the Androscoggin, we have one of the most striking views of the White Mountains.
In Lancaster the view is always grand. Mt. Lyon to the north, and thence eastward the broad sweep of the Pilot range, and the group of mountains of which Starr King is the culminating point, are so situated that every fine sunset gives to them that deep coloring which is the charm of mountain scenery. Most of the White Mountain peaks can be seen from the village, but two miles east, on the road to Jefferson, to a point between three and four hundred feet above the Connecticut, brings them out in bolder relief, and at the same time gives a charming view of the Connecticut valley and the village of Lancaster. FromMt. Pleasant, which is easv of access, the view is more extended, and embraces the mountains southward.
From Jefferson hill and thence on the road to Randolph, we get a nearer view of the mountains. At the Mt. Adams the broad sweep of forests, reach- ing from Israel's river almost to the summits of the mountains, gives us one of our grandest views. From Dalton mountain we have the sweep of the whole horizon; westward, the mountains in Vermont; the Connecti- cut valley northward; the mountains of Stratford, Mt. Lyon, the Pilot range, Starr King, all of the White Mountains, the chief of the Franconia mountains, and Moosilauke, southward.
Shelburne. — The scenery is varied and lovely to those artistic enough to appreciate it. Artists say that nowhere have they seen such rich autumnal coloring as in Shelburne. Several picturesque spots may be found on the Lead Mine brook, and the little flat called The ( rarden is used as a camping ground by tourists. On the north side of Mt. Winthrop is Moses1 rock, so-called, sixty feet high, and rising at an angle of fifty degrees. In the winter water trickles over it, forming a beautiful ice cas- cade. Near by was the Granny Starbird rock, where the old doctress held her horse by the bridle through a stormy night. It has since been split up for railroad bridges and underpinnings. On Peabody brook, between Ked hill and Baldcap, are Shelburne falls. In the spring they can be seen two- thirds the length of the town, appearing like a great drift of snow. The Falls are one of the objects of interest to summer visitors.
40 History of Coos County.
Baldcap, as its name implies, is a bare ledge at the top, and in height ranks next to Moriah. It is easy to ascend and affords a delightful view. A little pond of clear, cool water near the summit was christened Dream lake by some romantic visitor.
Gorham. — The mountain scenery here is not surpassed in the whole mountain region. At the southeast, distant but a few miles, stand Mounts Moriah and Carter, each about 5,000 feet in height; at the west can be seen Mt. Madison; at the northwest the Pilot range, while at the east are the Androscoggin hills, the most prominent of which is Mt. Hayes. It is only eight miles to the Glen House at the base of Mt. Washington.
CHAPTER V.
INDIAN HISTORY
Aborigiual Indians — Iroquois — Mohawks — Algonquins — New England Tribes — Wigwams — Social Life, Government, and Language — Food — Religion — The St. Francis Indians — Gen. Amherst — Rogers' Expedition — Destruction of St. Francis Village — Retreat and Sufferings of the "Rangers."
WHEN the Europeans first landed on the Continent of America, the Indians who inhabited the Atlantic slope, and dwelt in the valleys of the Connecticut and St. Lawrence, in the basin of the Great Lakes, and the fertile valleys of the Alleghany region, were composed of two great nations and their sub-divisions. These were soon known to the whites under the French appellation of Iroquois and Algonquins. These nations differed in language and lineage, in manners and customs, in the construction of their dwellings and boats, and were hereditary enemies.
The Iroquois proper, who gave their name to one division, the ablest and most powerful of this family, were the Five Nations, called by them- selves the Ho de-no-sau-nee, "the people of the long house.'' They com- pared their union of five tribes, stretched along a narrow valley for more than two hundred miles in Central New York, to one of their long wig- wams containing many families. Among all the Aborigines of America there were none so politic and intelligent, none so war-like and fierce, none with such a contrasting array of virtues and vices as the true Iroquois. All surrounding tribes, whether of their own family, or of the Algonquins, stood in awe of them. They followed the war-path, and their war-cry was heard on the banks of the Mississippi, on the shores of the Gulf of
Indian History. 4t
Mexico, and where the Atlantic breakers dash in Massachusetts Bay. "Some of the small tribes were nearly exterminated by their ferocity and barbarity. They were more cruel to the Eastern Indians than those [ndians were to the Europeans. " The New England tribes, with scarce an excep- tion, paid them tribute; and the Montagnais, fai north on the Saguenay, called by the French " the paupers of the wilderness, " would start from their midnight slumbers at dreams of the Iroquois, and run, terror-st ricken, into the forest. They were the conquerors of the Mew World, and justly carried the title of "The Romans of the West." The .Jesuit Father. Ragueneau, wrote, in 1650, in his " Revelations des Hurons, " "My pen has no ink black enough to paint the fury of the Iroquois." The tribe
which guarded the eastern door of the typical long house, was the si
active and most blood-thirsty one of this fierce family, the dreaded Mo- hawks, to whom the Connecticut River Indians gave the appellation of Ma-qua hogs, or Maquas— "Man-eaters." The Mohawk country proper was west of the Hudson river, but, by right of conquest, they claimed all the country between the Hudson and the sources of the north and easterly branches of the Connecticut, and, by virtue of this claim, all the Indians of the Connecticut valley paid them annual tribute.
The few tribes of the Iroquois were surrounded on all sides by the much more numerous Algonquins, to which family all the New England trib< - belonged, Along the valley of the St. Lawrence dwelt the Algonquins proper, the Abinaquis, the Montagnais, and other roving tribes. Th tribes were often forced, during the long Canadian winters when game grew scarce, to subsist on buds and bark, and sometimes even on the wood of forest trees, for many weeks together. From this they were called in mockery by their bitter enemies, the Mohawks, "Ad-i-ron-daks" tree-eaters. The New England tribes of the Algonquin family dwelt along the sea, and on the banks of the larger streams. The Et-it-che-mi-as dwelt farthest east in the St. Croix region. The confederation of Abina- quis, and their kindred tribes, the Taratines, had their hunting-grounds in the valleys of the Penobscot, Saco, and Piscataqua, and held possession of Northern New Hampshire. The Anasagunticooks, a powerful tribe, con- trolled the territories of the Ameriscoggin (Androscoggin). Savage, and given to war, they dwindled away, until in 1747. they could number but 160 warriors. The Pequawkets (Pigwackets) occupied the Saco valley. In the southeastern part of New Hampshire and northeastern Massachusetts dwelt the Penobscot or Pawtucket tribe; while the Massachusetts occupied the lands around the bay known by their name, and the neighboring islands. In what is now the state of Vermont, no permanent home existed of any Indian tribe. It was the beaver- hunting country of the [roquois, but also claimed, and at times occupied, by the Abenaquis.
Wigwams. — The Algonquin Indians made their wigwams small and
42 History of Coos County.
round, and for one or two families only; while the Iroquois built theirs long and narrow, each for the use of many families. The Algonquin wigwam was made of poles set up around a circle, from ten to twelve feet across. The poles met at the top, forming a circular frame- work, which was cov- ered with bark-mats or skins; in the center was the fire, the smoke escap- ing from a hole in the top. In these wigwams men, women, children, and dogs, crowded promiscuously together in complete violation of all our rules of modern housekeeping.
Social Life, Government, and Language. — The government of the Indian was completely patriarchal. The only law was the custom of the tribe; conforming to that, he was otherwise as free as the air he breathed to fol- low the bent of his own wild will. In his solitary cabin he was the head of his family, and his "squaw" was but his slave to do the drudgery. Over tribes were principal chiefs called sachems, and lesser ones called sagamores. The direct succession was invariably in the female line. The war-chiefs were only leaders in times of war, and won their distinction only by their valor on the war-path. The Indian language, in the language of modern comparative philology, was neither monosyllabic like the Chinese, nor inflecting like that of the civilized Caucasian stock, but was agglutin- ating, like that of the northwestern Asiatic tribes, and those of south- eastern Europe. They express ideas by stringing words together in one compound vocable. The Algonquin languages were harsh and gutteral; not euphonious like that of the Iroquois. Contrast the Algonquin names A-gi-o-cho-ok, Co-os, Squa-ke-ag, Am-os-ke-ag, Win ne-pi-se-o-gee, Waum- bek meth-na, with Hi-a-wath-a, O-no-a-la-go-na, Kay-ad-ros-se-ra, Ska- nek-ta-da.
Food. — The Indians had fish, game, nuts, berries, roots, corn, acorns, squashes, a kind of bean called now "seiva bean," and a species of sun- flower, with roots like an artichoke. Fish were speared or taken with lines, nets or snares, made of the sinews of deer, or fibres of moose- wood. Their fish-hooks were made of the bones of fishes or of birds. They caught the moose, the deer, and the bear in the winter season by shooting with I tows and arrows, by snaring, or in pitfalls They cooked their fish by roasting before the fire on the end of a long stick, or by boil- ing in closely woven baskets, or stone or wooden vessels. They made water boil, not by hanging over the fire, but by the constant immersion of hot stones. The corn boiled alone was "hominy;" with beans, "succo- tash."
Religion. — The aborigines had but a vaguely crude idea, if an idea at all, of religion. They had no priests, no altars, no sacrifice. They had "medicine-men " -mere conjurors— who added nothing to the mysterious awe and superstition which enveloped the whole race. The Indian spirit- ualized everything in nature; heard ' k aery tongues on sands and shores
Indian History. i:;
and desert wildernesses," saw "calling shapes and beckoning shadows dire" on every hand. The flight or cry of a bird, the humming of a bee, the crawling of an insect, the turning of a leaf, the whisper of a breeze, all were mystic signals of good or evil import, by which he was guided in the most important undertakings. He placed the greatest confidence in dreams, which were to him revelations from the spirit-world, guiding him to the places where his game lurked, and to the haunts of Ins enemies. He invoked their aid on all occasions to instruct him how to cure the sick, or reveal to him his enemies.
Three centuries of contact with our civilization has unchanged him, and he is still the wild, untamed child of nature. "He will not."' says Parkman, "learn the arts of civilization, and he and his forest must per- ish together. The stern, unchanging features of his mind excite our admiration from their immutability; and we look with deep interest on the fate of this irreclaimable son of the wilderness, the child who will not be weaned from the breast of his rugged mother.*'
St. Francis Indians. — The central metropolis of the Abenaquis Indians was situated on the St. Lawrence river at the mouth of the St. Francis. This was midway between Montreal and Quebec, and in easy communica- tion with the New England frontiers. These St. Francis Indians were strong in numbers, power, and enterprise, and the staunch allies of the French. Here was planned expedition after expedition against the border English settlements, and here was paid the bounties offered for scalps and prisoners. Here, too, was a city of refuge for all the outlawed savages driven from the English country. Among these were what remained of the followers of Philip, Paugus, Mesaudowit, Kancamagus, and Wahawah. From this strong protected citadel for many years went out war parties, thirsting with revenge, to glut it in the blood of the New Englanders. "Hundreds of people had fallen by the rifle and hatchet, burnished and sharpened at the hearth-stones of this village " These Indians claimed the "Cowasse" country as their own. They enjoyed the rich profusion of game and fish of the upper Connecticut. The bear, moose, and feathered game were of a superior quality, while from the clear, cold waters of the streams they brought ample supplies of those delicate fish— salmon and trout. The fertile soil yielded large crops of corn wherever their rude planting covered the kernels. It was a select and paradisaical country, this "Cowasse"— and no wonder that they stoutly resisted all encroach- ments of the English or their attempts to occupy their last hold upon New- England. Here the Indians, during the strong rule of the French in Canada, and blest by their aid, grew fat and uumerous. Through this country passed their trails when they carried death and destruction to the frontier settlements of lower New Eampshire, and their jubilant cries, as they returned laden with spoils, scalps, and prisoners, resounded along the
44 History of Coos County.
"Notch," and other defiles of the White Mountains, and among the tall white pines of the upper Connecticut. Until the power of the French was broken, and while the St. Francis Indians preserved their strength, no paleface, except a captive, was allowed even a lodging, or an occupancy in the "Coos."
After the fall of Louisburg, in 17T.S. Gen. Abercrombie was recalled to England, and General Amherst made commander of the British forces warring against the French and Indians in America. He took personal command at Lake Champlain, brought order out of confusion, called for seventeen hundred more recruits from the already depleted numbers of the colonists, and gained success by the excellence of his judgment, his circum- spection, and other needed qualities for winning conquests and preserving- acquisitions. In 1750 Gen. Amherst ordered two measures of great importance to New England. One was the construction of a military road from Crown Point to Number Four (Charlestown) on the Connecticut river. This improvement was of great value, and opened a large territory to immediate settlement. The other measure was of full more importance. It was the destruction of the chief village of the St. Francis tribe. The daring Indian-fighter, Major Robert Rogers, with two hundred of his fam- ous Rangers, was selected for the undertaking. A large part of this detachment, both of officers and men, was from New Hampshire, and chosen, by Rogers himself, for their bravery and experience. Starting from Crown Point, they passed down Lake Champlain to Missisquoi Bay, and there left their boats in charge of two Indians, who were to remain until the party returned, unless the enemy discovered the boats. In such case the guard was to follow and inform Rogers of the fact. Major Rogers and his party, reduced by casualties to one hundred and forty-two, the 23d of September, left the bay and struck boldly into the wilderness, but, on the 25th, were overtaken by the Indians left in charge of the boats, with the disheartening intelligence that the enemy had discovered them and were in pursuit. There was no alternative but to push on, outmarch the pursuers, destroy the fated village, return by Lake Memphremagog and the Connecticut, and thus accomplish their object and elude their pursuers. Lieut. McMillen was sent back across the country to Crown Point, to inform Gen. Amherst of their situation, that he might order provisions to be sent up the Connecticut to the Lower Coos for the use of the party, should they live to return that way. The Rangers then, nothing daunt- ed, continued their march through the wet, marshy ground for nine days; sleeping nights upon a sort of hammock made of boughs to keep them from the water. The tenth day they arrived within fifteen miles of the doomed town. The place was reconnoitred by Rogers and two of his officers on the 6th of October, and the Indians were discovered in the great- est glee, celebrating a wedding. Rogers returned to his part}', and, at
Indian History. i:.
three o'clock the next morning, the Rangers advanced to within four hun dred yards of the village. Before sunrise the attack was made by an advance in three divisions. The surprise was so complete thai the [ndians had no time to rally, defend, or escape. Two hundred were killed upon the spot; twenty of their women and children were taken prisoners. I ^ay- light revealed to the victors the horrible sight of more than six hundred scalps of both sexes and ail ages floating from the lodge-poles of the wig- wams. Nothing can give us a more vivid picture of the honors of an Indian war, or the dangers besetting the early days of the pioneers of this country. If the massacre of this village of surprised savages seem a cold and blood-thirsty deed, the discovery of these dread trophies of savage atrocity showed it to be but a just reprisal. All of the houses were burned, except three, and, it was supposed, many Indians. Upon roll-call it was found that seven were wounded and one killed. They then commenced their march for Connecticut river. It was Rogers' intention to occupy for a time the fort he had built in 1755, in what is now Stratford. After marching eight days their provisions failed upon the shore of Lake Mem- phremagog, and they separated into parties, the better to obtain game, and made for " the mouth of the Ammonoosuck" as best they might. It was a march for life. Twenty were killed or taken prisoners. Rogers took one party with him by the way of Magog lake and the Passumpsic river. Another party was to gain the upper Connecticut and follow down that stream. Other parties took independent courses. ;: Some, after months of weary journeying, reached the settlement, while others perished in the wilderness. A Toledo blade, found on Meeting House hill, Lancas- ter, no doubt belonged to one of the "Rangers." In the early settlement of the country gnus were found on the Fifteen-mile falls, and it is sup- posed one of the parties was overtaken by Indians here, that a tight ensued in which several were killed, that the whites were victorious, and that they put the guns of those who were killed in the river so they would not be found by the Indians. One historian says that many died at the head of the Fifteen-mile falls from exhaustion and hunger. They had in vain tried to appease their hunger by boiled powder-horns, bullet-pouches, leather-aprons, bark of trees, ground nuts and lily pads. There can be no doubt that some of them even ate human flesh.
There is a tradition that relics of Rogers' " Rangers" have been found on the north side of the White Mountains. (See Jefferson.) The party which arrived at the Lower Coos found the fresh embers of the tires Left by the party which Gen. Amherst had sent there with provisions, which had.jusl a few hours before, returned to Charlestown without leaving supplies.
* According to James W. Weeks, the old settlers of Co5s had a tradition thai most of the parlies, with Major Rogers, met at Fort Wentworth, and waited three days foi stragglers to come in, before starting down the river.
46 History of Coos County.
Months elapsed before the scattered men were reunited at Crown Point. Fifty of the gallant-band were reported lost. From this time the St. Fran- cis Indians were scattered in small bands, and in different localities. Their spirit was broken, their prestige gone. Major Rogers and his ''Rangers" had humbled them, and as the war had made them British subjects, " they, with silence and sorrow, permitted new coming whites to live among them," and the whole extent of the "Cowasse" was ready for English occupancy and settlement.
CHAPTER VI.
WHITE MOUNTAINS.
Topography — Mt. Starr King Group — Mt. Carter Group — Mt. Washington Ratige — Cherry Mountain District — Mt. Willey Range— History — Mythology — First Visited— Winthrop's Account —Darby Field's Route up the Mountains — Josselyn's Description of Scenery — The Chrystal Hills — Later Visits — Western Pass, or " Notch'"— First Settlement — Scientific Visitors— Scenery of the Notch — Nash and Sawyer's Grant — "A Horse through the Notch " — Sawyer's Rock — First Articles of Commerce — Tenth New Hampshire Turnpike — Scientific Explorations — First Settlers Among the Mountains — Nancy's Rock and Brook — First House in the Notch — Craw- ford's Cabin on the Summit — Summit House — Tip-top House — Carriage Road — Glen House — Mt. Washington Railway — Mountain Tragedies — "Among the Clouds " — Signal Station — Sum- mer Hotels.
THE White Mountains cover an area of 1,270 square miles, bounded by the state line on the east ; the Androscoggin river and the Grand Trunk Railway on the northeast and north ; the Connecticut river valley, or an irregular line from Northumberland to Warren, on the west ; the region of Baker's river on the southwest ; the Pemigewasset river and the lake district on the south. The Saco river cuts the White Mountains into two nearly equal parts. Prof. Huntington groups the mountains in ten sub-divisions : 1. Mt. Starr King group. 2. Mt. Carter group. 3. Mt. Washington range, with a Jackson branch. 4. Cherry mountain district. 5. Mt. Willey range. 6. Mt. Carrigain and Osceola group. 7. Mt. Pas- saconnaway range. 8. Mts. Twin and Lafayette group. 9. Mts. Moosi- lauke and Profile division. 10. Mt. Pequawket area. The first five em- brace all really connected with this county. These mountain groups differ much in geological character, age, and topographical features.
1. Mt. Starr Kin'/ < ! roup is embraced in the remote portions of the towns of Gorham, Randolph, Jefferson, Lancaster, Stark, Milan, Berlin, and the
W'niTK Mountains.
whole of Kilkenny. It is bounded by the Upper Ammonoosucand Andro- scoggin rivers on the north and east, by Moose and [srael's livers on the south, and the Connecticut slope on the west. The longest diameter of this group is sixteen miles ; the greatest width thirteen miles. The shape of the area is oval elliptical, more pointed at the north than south, and comprises about 150 square miles. The Upper Ammonoosuc river Hows in a broad valley in Randolph and Berlin, and thereby divides the group into
two parts. The source, called the "Pond of Safety,1' is nearly! feel
above Milan water-station, and there is a depression in the ridge in the south towards Jefferson. Geologists state that the northern portion of the Starr King region was once a large plateau through which water has cut the numerous valleys now found. Not less than seven streams have cut notches into this plateau, — the three most prominent ones being from Berlin, Stark (Mill Brook), and Lancaster. There is a central ridge through Kilkenny, the Pilot mountain range, connected by a valle}7 with Mt. Stan- King in Jefferson. A branch diverges from this range to Pilot mountain in Stark. Green's ledge and Black mountain are spurs to the east from the Pilot range. From Mt. Starr King to Berlin Falls runs an irregularly curved range, composed of Pliny, Randolph, and Crescent mountains, and Mt. Forest. Mts. Starr King, Pilot, and Randolph, are the culminating points, being in height 3,800, 3,640, and y>j"'i?> feet respectively.
2. Mt. Carter Group lies in Shelburne, Bean's Purchase, Chatham, and Jackson. There is a heavy range from Gorham to Jackson, quite near the Peabody and Ellis valleys, while, on the east, the slope towards the Andros- coggin is quite gradual. Mt. Moriah is one of the most northern peaks of this chain. Rev. T. Starr King says " Mount Moriah should be seen from the bend of the Androscoggin, a little more than a mile north of the hotel (in Gorham). Here its charming outline is seen to the best advantage. Its crest is as high over the valley as Lafayette rises over the Profile House." Mt. Moriah and Mt. Carter are separated by Imp mountain Wild river occupies a broad valley in Bean's Purchase, trending northeasterly. The highest part of Carter range is next Peabody river. The western slope is much steeper than the eastern. Several tributaries How to Wild river from the south, from the range which runs easterly to form the entire western and southern edge of the Wild river basin. This range curves to the north, near the Maine line, where Mt. Royce stands immediately on the border. Some of the wildest, grandest, and most beautiful scenery of the White Mountains is in this district.
3. Mt. Washington Range. — The main range of Mt. Washington extends from Gorham to Bartlett, about twenty-two miles. The culminating point is central, with a deep gulf towards Gorham, a slope on the north, formed partially by the westerly Mt. Deception range, which also produces the broad Ammonoosuc valley on the west, in connection with the axial line
48 History of Coos County.
of summits. There are two principal valleys on the south, the more westerly occupying the depression of Dry or Mt. Washington river, and the easterly passing down the slope of Eocky branch, which travels easterly near its termination, and parallel with the Saco in Bartlett. Starting with the Androscoggin valley, the range commences in the low Pine mountain. In the southeast corner of Gorham this is intersected by the pass of the Pinkham road between Randolph and the Glen House. Next, the land rises rapidly to the top of Mt. Madison, 5,400 feet. The range now curves westerly, passing over the summits of Adams, Jefferson, and Clay. From the gap between Clay and Washington the best view can be obtained of the deep abyss in which the west branch of Peabody river rises. From Washington the east rim of the Great Gulf is easily discerned, for on it the carriage road to the Glen House is located. From "Blue Pond," or " Lake of the Clouds," and the height south of Tuckerman's ravine to Madison, it is easy to imagine an elevated plateau out of Washington, which rises, say S00 feet. Tuckerman's and Huntington's ravines have been cut out east of Washington. Tuckerman's runs easterly, holding the head waters of Ellis river. Huntington's commences at the southern angle of the carriage road, at the fifth mile post, and runs towards the first. Past Mt. Washington the main range drops to the pass of the Lake of the Clouds, — the source of the Ammonoosuc river. The first mountain is Monroe, then comes Mts. Franklin, Pleasant, Clinton, Jackson, and Web- ster, as named. Mt. Webster is a long mountain with a steep side towards the Saco, and being directly opposite the Willey House, forms one of the chief features of the Notch. From Monroe to Webster, the east flank of the mountains is washed by the powerful Mt. Washington river, the proper continuance of the Saco valley, which formerly was called Dry river. This heads in Oakes's gulf, from the east side of which two ranges run south- erly. The western one follows the Saco to a point opposite ki Sawwer's rock," having, in the lower part of its course, Giant's Stairs, Mt. Resolu- tion, Mt. Crawford. Mt. Hope, and "Hart's ledge." The eastern one is not conspicuous, and not named.
4. Cherry Mountain District. — Mt. Deception range consists of four peaks, — Mt. Mitten, Mt. Dartmouth, Alt. Deception, and Cherry mountain. It is separated by a considerable valley from Mt. Jefferson, and its gentler slope lies on the northern flank towards Israel's river. The road from Fa- byan's to Jefferson passes between Cherry and Deception. Cherry moun- tain lias a northerly spur of large dimensions, called Owls Head, where occurred the great slide of L885.
5. Mt. Willey Range starts from near the White Mountain House in Carroll, and ends in Mt. Willey. Its northern terminus is low, the highest peak being at the southern end of the range. Six granitic summits appear before reaching the high summit of Mt. Tom, just back of the Crawford
White Mountains. i:t
House. The stream forming " Beech er's Cascade" passes between Mt. Tom and the next summit south, which was named Mt. Lincoln, but, as that name was already occupied by a peak in Franconia, was re-christened Mt. Field by Prof. Huntington. From Mt. Field to Mt. Willey, the high land is continuous, reaching an elevation of 4,300 feet. It then drops off abruptly, and terminates. Ethan's pond, the head of the Merrimack river waters, lies a little to the southwest of the precipice. The Field- Willey range is directly opposite Mt. Webster, and the valley between is the most striking part of the White Mountain notch, the head of which is formed by Mt. Willard, only about 550 feet above the Crawford plain.
History. — The first mention of the White Mountains in print, occurs in Josselyn's "New England Rarities Discovered," printed in 1672. This writer, in his " Voyages," published a year or two later, gives us the best part of the mythology of our highest hills. The story, as Josselyn tells it, is curious enough; and its resemblance to one of the most venerable of Caucasian traditions should seem to suggest some connection of the peo- ple which transmitted it with the common Asiatic home of the bearded races. "Ask them," says Josselyn, "whither they go when they dye? they will tell you, pointing with their finger to Heaven beyond the White Mountains, and do hint at Noah's Flood, as may be conceived by a story they have received from father to son, time out of mind, that a great while agon their Countrey was drowned, and all the People and other Creatures in it, only one Poivaw and his Webb foreseeing the Flood fled to the White Mountains carrying a hare along with them and so escaped; after a while the Poivaw sent the Hare away, who not returning, emboldened thereby, they descended, and lived many years after, and had many children, from whom the Countrie was filled again with Indians." The Indians gave the mountains the name of Agiocochook. The English name of our moun- tains, which had its origin, perhaps, while as yet they were only known to adventurous mariners, following the still silent coasts of New England, relates them to all other high mountains, from Dhawala-Giri, the White Mountain of the Himmalayah to Craig Eryri of Snowdon of Wales; but it is interesting to find them also, in this legend, in some sort of mythical connection with traditions and heights of the ancient continent, the first knowledge of which carries us back to the very beginnings of human his- tory. Dr. Belknap says that Capt. Walter Neale, accompanied by Josselyn and Darby Field, set out, in 1632, to discover the " beautiful lakes " report placed in the interior, and that, in the course of their travels, they visited the White Mountains. Merrill, in 1817, after an examination of the best authorities, concludes that Walter and Robert Neal, and others, visited the mountains in 1631, but it is to Darby Field, of Pascataquack, that the credit is now generally assigned of being the first explorer of the White Mountains. Accompanied by two Indians, Winthrop tells us, Feld climbed
50 History of Coos County.
the highest summit in 1(>42. We believe with C. E. Potter that Belknap's account is correct, and Field's first visit was in 1682. It appears that ' ' within twelve miles of the top was neither tree nor grass, but low savins, which they went upon the top of, sometimes, but a continual ascent upon rocks, on a ridge between two valleys filled with snow, out of which came two branches of Saco river, which met at the foot of the hill where was an Indian town of some 200 people. * * * * By the way, among the rocks, there were two ponds, one a blackish water, and the other a red- dish. The top of all was a plain about sixty feet square. On the north side was such a precipice, as they could scarce discern to the bottom. They had neither cloud nor wind on the top and moderate heat." Tins appears to have been in June, and a short time-af ter he went again, with five or six in his company, and "the report he brought of 'shining stones,' etc., caused divers others to travel tither, but they found nothing worth their pains." It is passing strange that men, reputed honest, could make such a wild report of regions that required no invention to make them attrac- tive and wonderful. Among those who expected rich treasure from these mountains were the proprietors, Mason and Gorges, and no discourage- ment could lessen their hopes. The Spaniards had found riches in the mountains of Mexico and Peru; why should not these New Hampshire mountains prove equally rich in the precious metals ? In August, of the same year, another party, led by Thomas Gorges, Esq., and Richard Vines, two magistrates of the province of Sir Ferdinando Gorges, set out on foot to explore "the delectable mountains." (Winthrop's History calls this " Darby Field's second visit.") "They went up Saco river in birch canoes to Pegwaggett, an Indian town. From the Indian town they went up hill, mostly for about thirty miles in woody lands, then about seven or eight miles upon shattered rocks, without tree or grass, very steep all the way. At the top is a plain about three or four miles over, all shattered stones. and upon that is another rock or spire, about a mile in height, and about an acre of ground at the top. At the top of the plain arise four great riv- ers, each of them so much water, at the first issue, as would drive a mill, Connecticut river from two heads, at the N. W. and S. W., which join in one about sixty miles off, Saco river on the S. E , Amascoggin which runs into Casco bay at the N. E, and Kennebeck, at the N. by E. The moun- tain runs E. and W. thirty miles, but the peak is above the rest."
There can be but little doubt that Darby Field, the first explorer, enter- ing the valley of Ellis river, left it for the great southeastern ridge of Mt. Washington, the same which has since been called Boott's Spur. This was the " ridge between two valleys filled with snow, out of which came two branches of Saco river," and it led him, as probably the other party also, to the broadest spread of that great plain, of which the southeastern grassy expanse, of some forty acres, has long been known as Bigelow's
White Mountains. :>1
Lawn, and the "top,1' to the north, where the two ponds arc, furnished Gorges with a part, no doubt, of the sources of his rivers.
" Fourscore miles," says Josselyn, "(upon a direct line) to the north- west of Scarborow, a ridge of mountains run northwest and northeast an hundred leagues, known by the name of the White Mountains, upon which lieth snow all the year, and is a Land-mark twenty miles off at sea. It is rising ground from the seashore to these Hills, and they are inaccessible but by the Gullies which the dissolved Snow hath made, in these ( ! allies grow Savin bushes, which being taken hold of are a good help to the climb- ing discoverer; upon the top of the highest of these Mountains is a large Level or Plain of a day's journey over, whereon nothing grows but Moss; at the farther end of this Plain is another Hill called the Sugar loaf, t< > out ward appearance, a rude heap of massie stones piled one upon another, and you may, as you ascend, step from one stone to another, as if you were going up a pair of stairs, but winding still about the Hill till you come to the top, which will require half a day's time, and yet it is not above a Mile, where there is also a Level of about an acre of ground, with a pond of clear water in the midst of it; which you may hear run down, but how it ascends is a mystery. From this rocky Hill you may see the whole Country round about ; it is far above the lower Clouds, and from hence we beheld a Vapour (like a great Pillar) drawn up by the Sun Beams out of a great Lake or Pond into the air, where it was formed into a Cloud. The Country beyond these Hills Northward is daunting terrible, being full of rocky Hills, as thick as Mole-hills, in a Meadow, and cloathed with infinite thick Woods." Gorges and Vines' party named these mountains the " Crystal Hills," but their provisions failed them before the beautiful lake was reached, and though they wTere within one day's journey of it, they were obliged to return home. Josselyn also says : "One stately mountain there is, sur- mounting all the rest, about four-score miles from the sea; between the mountains are many rich and pregnant valleys as ever eye beheld, beset on each side with variety of goodly trees, the grass man high, unmowed, uneaten, and uselessly withering, and within these valleys spacious lakes or ponds well stored with fish and beavers; the original of all the great rivers in the countrie, the snow lies upon the mountains the whole year excepting the month of August; the black flies are so numerous thai a man cannot draw his breath but he will suck of them in. Some suppose that the White Mountains were first raised by earthquakes, but they are hollow, as may be guessed by the resounding of the rain upon the level on the top." The pond on the top in this account, may have been due to extraordinary transient causes; it is not mentioned by the other visitors of the seventeenth century, and has not been heard of since.
We next hear of an ascent of the White Mountains by a '" ranging company," which "ascended the highest mountain, on the N. W. part."
52 History of Coos County.
so far, as appears, the first ascent on that side, April 29, 1725, and found, as was to be expected, the snow deep, and the Alpine ponds frozen. Another ranging party, which was "in the neighborhood of the White Mountains, on a warm day in the month of March," in the year 17-i^, had an interest- ing and the first recorded experience of a force, which has left innumer- able proofs of its efficiency all through the mountains. It seems that this party was " alarmed with a repeated noise, which they supposed to be the firing of guns. On further search they found it to be caused by rocks fall- ing from the south side of a steep mountain."
The Western Pass (Notch) of the mountains was undoubtedly known to the Indians, but we have no account of its use by the English, till after 1771, when two hunters, Timothy Nash and Benjamin Sawyer, passed through it. It is said that Nash, in pursuit of a moose, drove it into a deep gorge, and expected an easy capture. The moose, however, took an old Indian trail, which brought it safely to the other side of the mountain. A road was soon after opened by the proprietors of lands in the upper Cohos, and another, through the Eastern Pass, was commenced in 1771. Settlers began now to make their way into the immediate neighborhood of the moun- tains. The townships of Jefferson, Shelburne (which included Gorham), and Adams (now Jackson), successively received inhabitants from 1773 to 1779, and the wilderness, if as yet far enough from blossoming, was opened, and, to some extent, tamed.
It was now that the first company of scientific inquirers approached the White hills. In July, 1784, the Eev Manasseh Cutler, of Ipswich, a zeal- ous member of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, the Eev. Daniel Little, of Kennebunk, also a member of the Academy, and Col. John Whipple, of Dartmouth (now Jefferson), the most prominent inhabi- tant of the Cohos country, visited the mountains, "with a view to make particular observations on the several phenomena that might occur The w; iv by which Cutler ascended the mountain is indicated by the sti earn which bears his name in Belknap's and Bigelow's narratives, and was doubtless very much the same taken and described by Bigelow. President Dwight passed through the Notch in 1797, and a second time in 1803, and his beautiful description of the scenery is still valuable and correct. He says: "The Notch of the White Mountains is a phrase appropriated to a very narrow defile extending two miles in length between two huge cliffs, apparently rent asunder by some vast convulsion of nature. The entrance to the chasm is formed by two rocks, standing perpendicularly at the dis- tance of twenty-two feet from each other; one about twenty, the other about twelve feet in height. Half of the space is occupied by the brook, the bead stream of the Saco; the other half by the1 road. When we entered the Notch we were struck with the wild and solemn appearance of every- thing before us. The scale, on which all objects in view were formed, was
White Mountains. :,:;
the scale of grandeur only. The rocks, rude and ragged in a manner hardly paralleled, were fashioned, and piled on each other, by a hand operating only in the boldest and most irregular manner. As we advanced, these appearances increased rapidly. Huge masses of granite of every abrupt form, and hoary with a moss which seemed the product of ages, recalling to the mind the c Saxmn vetustum1 of Virgil, speedily rose to a mountain- ous height. Before us the view widened fast to the southeast. Behind us it closed almost instantaneously; and presented nothing to the eye but an impassable barrier of mountains. About half a mile from the entrance of the chasm, we saw in full view the most beautiful cascade, perhaps, in the world. It issued from a mountain on the right, about eight hundred feet above the subjacent valley, and at the distance of about two miles from us. The stream, which I shall denominate the ' Silver cascade/ ran over a series of rocks, almost perpendicular, with a course so little broken as to preserve the appearance of an uniform current, and yet so far dis- turbed as to be perfectly white. At the distance of three quarters of a mile from the entrance, we passed a brook known as the 'Flume.' The stream fell from a height of 240 or 250 feet over three precipices; down the first and second it fell in a single current, and down the third in three, which united their streams at the bottom in a fine basin immediately below us. It is impossible for a brook of this size to be modelled into more diversified, or more delightful, forms; or for a cascade to descend over precipices more happily fitted to finish its beauty. The sunbeams, penetrating through the trees, painted a great variety of fine images of light, and edged an equally numerous, and diversified, collection of shadows; both dancing on the waters, and alternately silvering and obscuring their course Purer water never was seen. Exclusively of its murmurs, the world around us was solemn and silent. Everything assumed the character of enchantment; and, had I been educated in the Grecian mythology, I should have be»'ii scarcely surprised to find an assemblage of Dryads, Naiads, and Oreades sporting on the little plain beneath our feet. As we passed onward through this singular valley, occasional torrents, formed by the rains and dissolv- ing snows, at the close of winter, had left behind them, in many places, perpetual monuments of their progress in perpendicular, narrow, and irreg- ular paths, of immense length; where they had washed the precipices naked and white, from the summit of the mountain to the base. Wide and deep chasms, also, at times met the eye, both on the summits and the sides; and strongly impressed the imagination with the thought, that a hand of immeasurable power had rent asunder the solid rocks, and tum- bled them into the subjacent valley. Over all, hoary cliffs rising with proud supremacy, frowned awfully on the world below, and finished the landscape."
This incident connected with the re-discovery of the Notch is interesting.
51 History of Coos County.
On the report of its re-discovery to Governor Wentworth. he warily agreed to grant Nash and Sawyer a tract of land if they would bring him down a horse from Lancaster, through this Notch. By means of ropes they succeeded in getting the horse over the projecting cliff, and down the rug- ged pathway of the mountain torrent, and brought him to the governor. When they saw the horse safely lowered on the south side of the last pro- jection, it is said that Sawyer, draining the last drop of rum from his junk bottle, broke the empty flask on the rock, and named it "Sawyer's rock," by which name it has ever since been known. The earliest articles of com- merce taken through the Notch appear to have been a barrel of tobacco, raised at Lancaster, which was carried to Portsmouth, and a barrel of rum which a company in Portland offered to any one who should succeed in taking it through the pass. This was done by Captain Rosebrook, with some assistance, though it became nearly empty, "through the politeness of those who helped to manage the affair." The difficulty of communica- tion was often the occasion of serious want, and it was no rare thing to suffer from scarcity of provisions.
The first person passing through the Notch to settle in the lands north- west was Col. Joseph Whipple, who came from Portsmouth in 1772. He brought tackles and ropes by which his cattle were brought over the preci- pices along the way. In 1803 the legislature authorized a lottery for the building of a turnpike through the Notch of the White Mountains, twenty miles in extent, at an expense of forty thousand dollars. (It was custom- ary in the early history of the country to raise money by lottery for the general welfare. Roads were built, literary institutions founded and religious societies aided, by such questionable means.) Tickets were issued exceed- ing the prizes by the sum of thirty -two thousand one hundred dollars; but, through the failure of agents, the loss of tickets, and the expense of man- agement, only fifteen hundred dollars came into the state treasury. This road, winding down to the west line of Bartlett through this gigantic cleft in the mountains, presents to the traveller "some of the most sublime and beautiful scenery which the sun, in his entire circuit, reveals to the curious eye." In July of this year, Dr. Cutler visited the mountains a second time, in company with Dr. W. D. Peck, afterwards Professor of Natural History at Cambridge, Mass. In 1816 Dr. Bigelow, Dr. Francis Boott, Francis C. Gray, and Chief Justice Shaw visited the mountains. In 1819 Abel Crawford opened the footway to Mt. Washington, which follows the southwestern ridge from Mt. Clinton. July 31, 1820, Messrs. A. N. Brack- et!, J. W. Weeks, Charles J. Stuart, Esq., Gen. JohnWillson, Noyes S. Dennison, and S. A. Pearson, Esq., of Lancaster, with Philip Carrigain, and Ethan Crawford as guide, ascended the southwestern ridge by the new path, from the head of the Notch, and explored the summits of the whole range as far as Mt. Washington. They took the height of the mountains
White Mountains.
with a spirit-level, and were seven days in this slow, fatiguing labor. They must have been the first party which passed the night upon the summit. Benjamin D. Greene, Esq., collected the plants of the southwestern ridge in 1823, and the same year, Henry Little, a medical student, explored this part of the mountains. In 1825, William Oakes, Esq., and Dr. Charles Pick- ering, made, together, extensive researches of much interest. Dr. J. W. Bobbins explored carefully the whole range in 1829, descending into and crossing the Great Gulf, and traversing for the first time, so far as scien- tific interests were concerned, all the eastern summits. Rev. T. Stan- King, whose artistic appreciation and eloquent writings did so much to bring this region into notice, came here in 1837. In 1840, a party, includ- ing Dr. Charles T. Jackson, reached Mt. Washington on horseback by the way of the Notch.
First Settlers. — The first settlers among the mountains came from below, and settled Conway in 1704, Jefferson in 1772, Franconia in 1774, Bartlett in 1777, Jackson in 1778, Bethlehem in 1790. In 1792 Captain Rosebrook established himself and home on the site of Fabyan's, and opened the first house for summer visitors there in 1808. Abel Crawford settled at Bemis in 1793. Ethan A. Crawford succeeded to the Rosebrook place in 1817. But thirty years before any of these thought of making a home in this wild region, so runs the story, Thomas Crager sought among the solitudes of the mountain rocks, relief for a grief so intense as almost to craze him. His wife had been executed as a witch ; his little daughter Mary, his only child, had been carried into captivity, and after a long and unavailing search, he went up to the mountains, and lived for a long time, where the pure water and air of the region brought health and strength, protected from the evil intent of the Indians by their belief in his being the adopted son of the Great Spirit. After long years, he found his daughter among the Indians of eastern Maine, married, and living as a squaw. Many wild legends are told of Crager and the Indian captor of his daughter, but the fact of his existence and residence here is all we need record.
Nancy's Brook and Nancy's Bridge take their name from a girl who perished here in 1778. Her tragic story has so often been told, that we only allude to it.
The First House in the Notch was the historic Willey House. It was kept as a public house for some years, then abandoned, and again occupi< d in 1825, by Samuel Willey, Jr., who, with his wife, five children, and two hired men, perished in the great slide of August 28, L826. As there would be a dozen people desirous of visiting the mountains coming to Ethan A. Crawford's hostelry, in 1821 he most effectively advertised it. by cutting a path, which shortened the distance, and made it easy to go up the moun- tain. Soon after this, increased travel brought a demand for some place jon the summit where visitors could pass the night, and Ethan constructed
56 History of Coos County.
a stone cabin, near the large spring of water, and furnished it, first with a large supply of soft moss for beds ; and afterwards with a small stove, an iron chest to hold the blankets, and a long roll of sheet lead, as a reg- ister of names of visitors.
The first hotel on Mt. Washington was the old Summit House, built in 1852, by L. M. Eosebrook, N. R. Perkins, and J. S. Hall. The Tip Top House was built in 1853, by John H. Spaulding and others. He was part owner of that and the Summit House, and conducted them for several years. The present Summit House was built in 1872. The old Summit House was torn down in the spring of 1881, to give place to a new build- ing, used as lodging rooms for the employees of the hotel.
The first winter ascent of Mt. Washington was made by Lucius Harts- horne, a deputy sheriff of Coos county, and B. F. Osgood, of Gorham, De- cember 7, 1858. John H. Spaulding, Franklin White, and C. C. Brooks, of Lancaster, made the ascent February 19, 1862, and were the first to spend the night on the mountain in winter.
The carriage road from the Glen House to the summit of Mt. Wash- ington was begun in 1853, under the management of D. 0. Macomber, C. H. V. Cavis being surveyor. The first four miles were finished the next year. Financial troubles stopped the work for a time, but the road was finally opened August 8, 1861. It is eight miles long, and has an average grade of twelve feet in 100. The ascent is made by stages in four hours, and the descent in an hour and a half.
George W. Lane drove the first Concord coach that ever ascended Mt. Washington over this road, August 8, 1861.
The Glen House in Pinkham Notch, at the eastern base of Mt. Wash- ington, is fifteen miles north of Glen station, near North Conway, eight miles south of Gorham, on the Grand Trunk railway, and has a full and unobstructed view of the highest peaks of the Mt. Washington range. Mt. Washington is ascended from the Glen by the carriage road, eight miles long. Glen Ellis Falls, and Crystal Cascade, near the Glen, are two of the finest water-falls in the mountain. Tuckerman's Ravine is most easily reached from the Glen House.
Pinkham Notch takes its name from Daniel Pinkham, an early resident of Jackson. In 1821 he commenced a road through the wilderness between two ranges of the White Mountains ; this road was about twelve miles in length, and connected Jackson with Randolph, and in two years time it was completed. The Notch is situated at the Glen Ellis Falls, and the mountains here are only a quarter of a mile apart.
The Mt. Washington railway was projected by Sylvester Marsh. The building of the road was begun in 1866, and finished in 186U.
The ascent is made by the railway from the west side, and the carriage road from the east. The railroad is three miles long, and has an average
White Mountains. 57
rise of one foot in four, the steepest being thirteen and one-half inches to the yard. The grade is overcome by means of cog-wheels working in a cog- rail in the center of the track, and powerful brakes on engines and cars insure safety. No passenger has been injured since the road was opened. The running time is one and one-half hours, and only one car is run with each engine.
Mountain Tragedies.— The destruction of the Willey family by a land slide in the White Mountain Notch, occurred August 28, 1826. Frederick Strickland, an Englishman, perished in the Ammonoosuc Eavine, in Oc- tober, 1851. Miss Lizzie Bourne, of Kennebunk, Me., perished on the Glen bridle-path, near the Summit, on the night of September 14, 1855. Dr. B. L. Ball, of Boston, was lost on Mt. Washington, in October, 1855, in a siiow storm, but rescued after two days' and nights' exposure, with- out food or sleep. Benjamin Chandler, of Delaware, perished near Chandler's Peak, half a mile from the top of Mt. Washington, August 7, 1856, in a storm, and his remains were not discovered for nearly a year. Harry W. Hunter, of Pittsburg, Pa., perished on the Crawford bridle-path, September 3, 187-1, a mile from the Summit. His remains were found nearly six years later, July 14, 1880. On the north side of Cherry mountain occurred the noted landslide of July 10, 1885. This was the largest slide ever known in the mountains. Donald Walker was the only one who lost his life. July 24, 1886, the great snow arch in Tucker- man's Eavine, near Mt. Washington, X. H., fell, and instantly killed Sewall Faunce, the fifteen-year-old son of Mr. Faunce, of the law firm of Faunce & Wiggin, School street, Boston.
The first number of Among the Clouds, the first daily newspaper pub- lished in the W7hite Mountains, and the only one printed on any mountain in the world, was issued July 18, 1S77, by Henry M. Burt, of Springfield, Mass. The paper records much that pertains to the exploration of the W7hite Hills, and the development of its unexplored resources. Almost every week something worth preserving about the mountains is printed in its columns. It is indispensable to the enjoyment of those who reside for the season among the mountains. When the season is fairly open, Mr. Burt receives, by telegraph, the full list of the daily arrivals at the principal hotels in the mountains, and publishes it in the following- issue. Two editions are published daily, one at 1 p. m., and and one at .'• a. m., each summer, from July to the close of the season. The afternoon edition contains the names of the arrivals on the morning train from Faby- an's, and on the stages from the (lien House. The publication office is the old Tip Top House, nicely fitted up, and equipped with a steam engine and Hoe cylinder press.
The signal station at the Summit was established in 1870. Prof. J. H. Huntington, of the State Geological Survey, was at the head of the party
58 History of Coos County.
that spent the first winter here. The building now occupied by the ob- servers was erected in 187*3.
For descriptions of Fabyan House, Crawford House, White Mountain House, and Twin Mountain House, see Carroll.
The Mt. Washington Summit House, with nearly one hundred sleep- ing rooms, is a commodious and comfortable hotel, under the manage- ment of Col. Oscar G. Barron.
CHAPTER VII.
PLANTS.
Trees — Shrubs — Grass 3S — Introduced Plants — Alpine Plants.
THE vegetation of Coos county contrasts strongly with that of the southern counties of the state. The somber colors of the Canadian evergreens largely take the places of the light foliage of the deciduous trees, and the Canadian flora occupies almost wholly the entire county to the exclusion of the more southern or Alleghanian division.
Trees. — " Our arbor vitas is," says Prof. Gray, "the physiognomic tree of our cold swamps at the north and in Canada.'" It is generally incor- rectly called " white cedar," and enters as a prominent element into the flora of Coos county, growing most abundantly along the borders of slow streams and in swamps, and varying from thirty to fifty feet in height. White spruce grows extensively in the region of Connecticut lake, but is rarely found below Colebrook. The balsam fir and black spruce, growing together in about equal numbers, give to the scenery of the White Moun- tains one of its peculiar features. " The stiff, spiked forms of the one are mingled with the blackish-green foliage of the other almost universally along the mountain sides, and are the last of the arborescent vegetation to yeld to the increased cold and fierce winds of the higher summits." North of the mountains, they, with arbor-vitas, are the predominant evergreens. The hemlock, so graceful when young, has its northern limit in the neigh- borhood of Colebrook and Umbagog lake. The American larch (hack- matack or tamarack) is chiefly found in small swamps. When the county was first known to civilization, the Connecticut valley was filled with a stately growth of the highly prized white pine, many of them fit for the "broad arrow " mark of the British Crown as mast trees sacred to the
Plants. 59
King's service. Now a few specimens, occuring mostly at the head waters of the streams, are all that remain of the original profusion. Second growths of this tree here are of rare occurrence, even when the cleared land is allowed to return to forest. The Canadian yew, or " ground hemlock. ** is present in the swamps, while the savin and juniper occupy higher ground. The red maple gives the brilliant scarlet color to our autumnal scenery. The rock, or sugar maple, is the largest of the maples and is an important economic factor, producing as it does maple sirup and sugar, and much valuable timber. The beech and the sugar maple are the most common of the deciduous trees of this county, making up most of the "hard-wood " for- ests. The black, yellow, and canoe birches are common, the latter being- conspicuous, high on the sides of the mountains, its white bark showing in striking contrast with the dark trunks and foliage of the firs and spruce. Dalton, Berlin, Gorham and Shelburne are in the red oak zone. The American elm is native to the alluvial soil of the larger rivers, and, owing to its majestic appearance, wherever it is found it is very prominent. The black poplar grows quite large, has dark colored bark on the trunk, and is much used in making "wood-pulp." A small variety of poplar, which sometimes springs up in great abundance in cleared land, never attains large growth.
Shrubs.— The mountain ash clings to the mountain sides and streams, and its red berries hang brilliant in autumn. Blackberries and raspberries are present, the red raspberry being one of the most numerous plants of the county. The blueberry genus is well represented by the Canadian and dwarf blue-berry, the cowberry, and the swamp cranberry. In the swamps we often find the Canadian holly and winter berry, while on the poorer soil of the hills the sumach matures. The alder, willow, witch hazel, high bush cranberry, Labrador tea, common and red-berried elder, moose wood. American yew, with currants and gooseberries are found in the localities for which nature has fitted them.
The shrubs grow smaller and smaller as the mountains are ascended. The mountain aster and golden rod, the white orchis, the white hellebore, the wood-sorrel, and Solomon's seal ascend into the black growth, while the clintonia, bunch berry, bluets, creeping snowberry, purple trilliums keep them company and cease to grow at the same altitude.
Grasses. — "Blue joint" (Calarnogrosti</ Canadensis), is the principal native grass, and grows luxuriantly. " Herd's grass " (P. Pratensis), not indigenous, grows in the lumber roads throughout the county as an intro- duced plant, and can be traced along the carriage mid on Mt. Washington far above the limit of trees.
Introduced Plants. — The white willow of Europe, which brought to some place in the Connecticut valley as a shade tree, has extended itself along the river, and is as much at home in Stewartstown and Pittsburg as
60 History of Coos County.
by the borders of European streams. The Canadian plum is much culti- vated, and grows frequently where man has never planted it. The hemp- nettle has come in some way from the Merrimack valley through Fran- conia Notch and made itself at home from Whitefield to the clearings around Connecticut lake. The garden wormwood finds in the slaty con- stituents of the soil of Pittsburg the needed elements for its life and flour- ishes in the open air without cultivation.
Alpine Plants. — An Alpine or Arctic vegetation is found on the treeless region of the upper heights of Mt. Washington and adjacent peaks, where alone are found the conditions favorable to their growth. They are of great hardihood and sometimes bloom amid ice and snow. This region which they occupy is a windswept tract above the growth of trees and about eight miles long by two miles wide. About fifty species are strictly Alpine and found nowhere else in the state. About fifty other species accompany them, and are also found at the base of the mountains and other parts of the state. These are called " sub- Alpines," and occupy the ravines and lower parts of the treeless region, but not the upper summits. In ascending the mountains, the firs and spruces become more and more dwarfish, at last rising but a few feet, while the branches spread out horizontally many feet, and become thickly interwoven. They present an almost even upper sur- face, strong enough to walk upon. At last these disappear giving place to the dwarf birch, Alpine willows, Labrador tea, and Lapland rhododen- dron, which spread out over the nearest rocks after rising a few inches above the ground, thus gaining the warmth which enables them to live in spite of cold and storm. On the top of the summits these are succeeded by the Greenland sandwort, cassiope, the diapensia, azalia, Alpine bearberry, with Arctic rushes, lichens and sedges.
CHAPTER VIII.
GAME OF COOS COUNTY.
BY HON. J. "W. WEEKS.
Beaver — Dams — Moose — Description, Food, Etc. — Deer, Caribou, Etc. — Horns — Bear — Wolverine — Lynx — Otter — Fisher — Sable — Raccoon — Grey Squirrel — Wild Geese and Ducks — Ruffed Grouse or Partridge — Canada Grouse or Spruce Partridge — Wild Pigeons.
EAVER.— It does not appear that the Indians ever cultivated the lands or wintered on the Connecticut farther north than Haverhill, conse- quently the wild animals were not so constantly beset by them in early times as they were farther south, or on the St. Lawrence. An old
Game of Coos County. 61
writer says above the mountains was a "paradise for hunters." The beaver inhabited this region in immense numbers. This animal, with instinct almost human, was in shape, except the tail, like the muskrat, but weighing twenty or twenty-five pounds. The tail, six or eight inches long, covered with thick scales, was very strong, broad at the extremity, and some three inches wide. It not only assisted the animal in swimming but in sitting at his work. The beaver's tail and nose of the moose were considered the greatest of delicacies, each being cooked in the same way wrapped in bark or leaves, and buried in the embers of the camp-fire till thoroughly roasted, when the skin was pulled off, and the feast commenced. It is said that the Indians cooked the whole beaver in this manner, thus losing the skin. The beaver was substantially exterminated prior to the settlement of Lancaster.
With regard to the beaver marks in this section, Major Weeks said there were dams on Martin's meadow " fifty rods long and five feet high *' in his day. Their meadows were found in every brook ; and their canals were cut from every pond surrounded by bogs, to the highlands. In a pond of a few acres in the north part of Whitefield, a canal was cut through the bog back to the high ground. This was as straight and true as if done by a spade and line. It was twenty inches or two feet wide, and so deep that in winter the beavers could pass to and from the pond under the ice. Their home was on this canal from which they reached the high ground, entering so deep down as to be below the frost. These canals served a double purpose ; they were the means of reaching the deciduous trees, the bark of which served them for food, and as a concealment from their enemies. These pond-beavers had holes along their canals, below the frost, that extended long distances and struck high land, where they dug up to where it was dry, and made their homes. From these burrows they could reach the pond and feed upon the roots of the cow lily, which was a favorite food of the beaver as well as the moose. East of Lancaster are two beaver meadows, containing a hundred acres or more, the upper one, of thirty or forty acres, at the junction of two considerable streams, has canals cut through it in various directions, some of them ;~lill eighteen inches deep, and the banks of earth thrown up along the sides in some places over two feet high These canals, unlike those cut from the natural ponds, were for the purpose of passing from place to place under the ice, and for storing their food, which consisted, in those artificial ponds, mostly of the bark of deciduous trees which grew along the banks, and werecul into pieces eighteen or twenty inches long, and sunk in the bottom of the canal. At the extreme upper end of this pond, on the main branch, is a mound about sixteen feet over and live feet high, with a deep trench extending nearly around it, and a canal running directly from it across the meadow to the opposite brook. This canal is more than twenty-five rods long, and the mound was evidently their house.
62 History of Coos County.
I have never but once seen where the beaver were at work. This was in the fall of 1844, in the forest in the northern part of the state, on Perry's stream. There was a new formed dam spanning the stream, which was fifteen or twenty feet wide at the place. This dam was three feet or more high, composed of brush at first, with the tops down stream, then filled in with stones, sticks, mud, and other material. It was considerably arched, so that the pressure of the current on its center crowded the ends against the banks and strengthened the structure. Near by was a white or river maple, three to four inches through, cut down, and several pieces cut from it eighteen or twenty inches long, and others partly cut. How such a mass of sticks, stones, gravel, and mud, as composed this dam were ever con- veyed there, is a mystery to me. When a boy, I often saw beaver cuttings about the ponds, once lagoons, but they were always old and seemed to be done by wandering animals ; a tree would be cut down and left Avhere it fell. The beaver, in felling a tree, cuts around it, cutting above and below, and tearing, or splitting out the chips, leaving the stump in the shape of a cone, tapering to a point at an angle of about forty-five degrees.
The Moose was not destroyed before the settlement of this northern country. The hunters killed them only to supply themselves with food when they were unsuccessful in trapping the beaver. The large extent of fertile soil, with its numerous streams and ponds, made this a favorite resort for all game that roamed a northern forest, more particularly of that strange and uncouth animal, the moose. He seems to have come down from a former period of time. No naturalist with whose writings I am acquainted, has given an adequate description of the habits and peculiar characteristics of this creature. Judge Caton, who has written a most exhaustive work on the " Deer of America," treats him as a herbivorous animal like the common deer, when his habits are much different from the caribou or reindeer. His long forelegs and short neck preclude his feeding from the ground without bending them or getting on his knees ; the long prehensile nose serving the purpose of the elephant's trunk, dropping three inches or more over the mouth, which is wholly out of sight as you stand beside or in front of him, with nostrils capable of being distended to an enormous size, or of being entirely closed, yet constantly vibrating, and usually narrowed to the merest slit when the creature is at rest. The little deep, and villainous looking eye, with its false, transparent lid, at one time half covering the sight, and then withdrawn, like that seen in aquatic animals or birds, show that the moose is not a grazing animal like the deer, and not destined to subsist on the common herbage of the forest.
I suppose the moose in the summer season feeds largely upon the twigs and branches of deciduous trees; but their favorite food is aquatic plants and roots Hunters, who have seen him eating, have told me that he would wade in the mud and water up to about midside, and put his head
Game of Coos County. 63
below the surface, feel around, and, when he got hold of the righl root, would pull it up, shake it in the water, and munch it as il floated around him. His flexible nose was very useful to foci and bring up the favorite roots, and the power to perfectly dose his nostrils togel her with the trans- parent lid protecting his eyes, left those organs in perfect condition to per- form their offices when the head was raised above the surface.
Perhaps it may not be amiss to say something of the root of the cow- lily, which formed so important an article of food for the moose. Most people have seen the pads and large yellow blossoms. The roots of the lily are nearly the size of a man's arm, and lie horizontally a few inches below 1 1 ie si i rface of the mud, forming a net- work so strong that a man may walk upon them. From appearance they last for ages, each season sending out feederroots, leaves, and flower stalks, that fall away at the commencement of cold weather. These roots are quite porous, are as easily cut as a potato >, and have a pungent but not unpleasant smell. The winter food of the moose was principally the bark of the mountain ash (which grows very large and in great abundance upon the mountains), although I have been told that at times they used the bark of the white maple. The moose strikes his teeth into the bark like a set of gouges, cuts diagonally across the wood, and upward, and gathers the bark into his mouth, as it falls, with his long, pliable, upper lip I never saw where the bark was taken from a tree nearer than two feet of the ground, but have seen them peeled as high as eight or nine feet.
T have never hunted the moose, but business has led me into his imme- diate neighborhood, where for days I would not be out of sight of his marks on his feeding grounds. At one time I had the good fortune to be able to study a tame one. This was a fine animal, about two years old, not quite as large as a colt of the same age. It was perfectly gentle and enjoyed being petted as much as a colt.
The moose were not wantonly destroyed by the respectable inhabitants of the country, as they considered them as a never-ending supply of meat. but by the vagabonds who always infest a new settlement. Some idea of the vast numbers of these animals may be gained from the fact (as stated by Edward Spaulding and Major John W. Weeks) that Nathan Caswell took it into his head to kill a hundred moose on the crusl in one winter, and actually did kill ninety-nine, and *Spanlding said he chased the hun- dredth one into the Burnside meadow, in Fast Lancaster, and lost him. Caswell lived on the noses and other nice bits, and only saved a part of the skins. He did this upon the same principle that wolves kill sheep for mere wickedness. It is said that the inhabitants were so incensed at this that they refused him shelter in their houses and drove him from the settle- ment. [This Caswell was not Capt, Nathan Caswell, the first settler and prominent citizen of Littleton, but probably was his son. a man of roving
64 History of Coos County.
habits.] Other persons probably killed as many more, bat they increased rapidly, and I have heard James B. Weeks say, that in 1808 or 1810, "there came a very deep snow, and, in March, a sharp crust, so that there were killed in Lancaster and surrounding towns as many as ninety moose, mostly wantonly.1' The few that survived this devastation moved to safer quarters.
Among the early settlers of Lancaster who occasionally hunted the moose were Stanley, Bucknam, and Blake. The two latter were remark- able for their deadly aim with the long smooth-bore. Stanley was also noted for the accuracy of his shots. At one time he killed four moose in Cherry pond by making five shots in quick succession, and bringing down four of the animals. Stanley owned and lived on what was later called the Bellows place, and afterwards owned by Capt. Beattie. Bucknam resided near the brick school-house in Lancaster, and Blake, near the mouth of John's river.
I should not do justice to this subject if I did not speak of the manner in which the hunters brought in their meat when they killed it at a dis- tance from home. Whether the toboggan is a modern invention or not I will leave for others to decide. The hunter kills a moose, takes off the skin, spreads it out, strips the flesh from the bones, and wraps it in the skin, which lies full length, and of equal widths (perhaps a foot and a half wide), binds it up with thongs cut from the edge of the skin, being sure that the thongs as they go round the pack are beneath the hair, and turns up the neck in the shape of the dasher to the toboggan. To this he fast- ens a withe, and lets the whole freeze, if it will. The slightest crust will bear this toboggan, and no sled ever ran smoother.
Deer. Caribou, Etc. — When the Creator formed the animals to inhabit the earth, lie made them to serve certain purposes in the courses of nature, one to fill this place, another that, but, at last, when he wanted a thing of beauty, he made the American deer, and he must have been well pleased with the work of his hands.
Very few deer ever found their way north of the White Mountains till the moose were substantially exterminated. In conversation, many years ago, with Edward Spaulding and James B. Weeks upon this subject, Mr. Spaulding, who came to the country in 1767. said, when he was a boy, a deer used to come and feed with his father's cattle in Northumberland, and aftera time his father killed it. Mr. Weeks said that in 1810 there weresome deer about Cherry pond, and two or three were killed on the crust by Lan- caster men. They must have been considered extremely rare at that time or men would not have gone eight miles through an unbroken forest to hunt them.
About 1818 oi- 1820 a deer was seen in the road near Prospect Farm. The boy who saw it described the animal and there was much questioning as
Game of Coos County. 65
to what it was. From this time their increase in Lancaster and vicinity was very rapid. They were seen about the ponds and streams, in the fields, and their marks were in the forest. The inhabitants did not know how to hunt them, and the deer were unmolested for a long time. A few were killed on the crust, but their meat was worthless at that season, and pub- lic opinion was against the killing of them for mere sport. After a time the people learned to still-hunt and trap them in the fall, and their meat and skins was quite a source of profit. The section with which I was best acquainted was South Lancaster, Dalton and Whitefield. It was said that Samuel Barker, of Dalton, killed forty with his rifle one fall, most of them he sent to market. A farmer who lived on the farm now owned by George P. Rowell killed fifteen one season, within a mile from home. In some well-to-do families venison was the most common fresh meat.
The reason for the great number of deer in the locality spoken of was probably the fact that they were not chased by hounds, for if one pursued a deer into that region he was killed. They were chased in Vermont and at Littleton, It will be noticed when the deer were so numerous, Lancas- ter was well occupied by farms, and the towns south well dotted with set- tlements. The deer, during the summer and fall, lived largely about the clearings, feeding on the tender herbage that sprung up after the running of the fires, or in the fields of the settlers. Whatever was palatable to a sheep was agreeable to the deer. Growing grain, wheat or oats did not come amiss; peas, potatoes, turnips, apples, and anything that a sheep would eat, the deer craved, and, in some instances, they were more than half domesticated. I will give an example: Since 1850, they would in the spring of the year be often seen on my meadow, a mile east of the village, as many as four at a time, but would generally disappear after the herbage was well started, but there was a doe that remained three years in succes- sion and raised a pair of fawns, which she kept hid in the small piece of woods west of the river, directly below E. F. Connor's. In August the fawns, then fine little animals, would appear with the mother. Of the last pair she raised there, one was perfectly white, except its nose and the back of its ears, which were tinged with red. The next March, 1854, some hunters from Manchester, hearing of these deer, came up with their hunt- ing shirts, their hounds, snow-shoes, long-range rifles, and all the parapher- nalia of city sportsmen to hunt the deer we did not know what to do with. They made their headquarters at the American House, and the next morn- ing, after fortifying their inner man (gentleman, I mean,) and raising their courage to a pitch necessary to so great and hazardous an undertaking, they went up and put their dogs after those inoffensive and helpless animals. They drove the white one up across the meadow and caught it by the side of the road a little west of where John Jerome now lives; they took it down to the American House in great state, and thence to Manchester. Whether
5
6Q History of Coos County.
the people of Manchester turned out en masse to welcome the gentlemen back after so hazardous an enterprise I never learned. What became of the other two deer I do not know, but they never returned to that neigh- borhood. It will be inferred from what I have written that if the deer could be protected from being chased by dogs in summer, and from brutal men killing them on the crust in the winter, hundreds of these beautiful and useful animals might inhabit every township of northern New Hamp- shire.
The deer, as mentioned before, made its appearance in Coos about 1818 or 1820, and its increase was very rapid. About 1830, when there were the greatest number here, the wolves came among us, and were terribly destructive both to sheep and deer, and the farmers soon came to the con- clusion that the deer were the cause of the wolves1 appearance, and they gradually withdrew their protection, and many persons killed twenty or more in the spring, wantonly as ever dogs or wolves killed sheep. Their numbers of course diminished, but in some localities they were numerous till after 1850. About that time, in the fall, after the snow was on the ground, I saw thirteen paraded on the porch of the old Cushman tavern in Dalton, taken with hounds by a party from Massachusetts, with Tom Jerrold, of Littleton, as guide. The deer, however, remained in consider- able numbers long after the wolves left.
I am thoroughly acquainted with the deer in all its habits and pecul- iarities of life. Of the fawn I would say it is the most beautiful little ani- nal that can be imagined. It is a little larger than the common lamb, with a pale red coat, like that of the doe in summer, ornamented with two rows of white spots on each side, the whole length of its body. Its grace- ful motion, its perfect limbs and its innocent and inquiring face, make it a most interesting creature. I never saw a fawn abroad with the doe while wearing its first or summer coat; they are hid by the mother while young and do not follow her till August. While the deer were plenty it was not an uncommon thing to find the fawns where the mother had left them when they could be easily captured. I have killed a large number of deer. but never was so mean or so unfortunate as to kill a doe while she was rearing her fawns in summer, but I saw one that was killed in the latter part of June, the udder of which indicated that she gave more milk in pro- portion to her size than a cow. The quantity a doe usually gives must be very great, as the fawns, wdien they begin to go out with her, are about half her size. The doe and her fawns remain together the first winter, but not after. Old bucks are seldom seen with the does or smaller deer. They remain exceedingly quiet while their horns are growing, and often become very fat. but after their horns harden, they feed little and range almost continually, soon becoming thin, and their venison is not good.
Of the caribou I know little, having never seen a live one, and never to-
Game of Coos County. 67
my recollection heard them spoken of by the early settlers, but it appears that, some sixty or seventy years ago, a herd came down from the north- east, and spread over the northern Androscoggin country, but did not come as far west as the Connecticut. I have never seen any of their natural feeding grounds, on any of the Connecticut waters southwest of Second and Third lakes. I have seen some very fine specimens of heads and horns taken in the extreme northeastern part of New Hampshire and Maine.
Horns. — The horns of the moose, deer, and caribou are strongly related to each other. I have noticed the horn of the deer, in all its stages, from the time it commences rising from the head till it dies and falls off in early winter. I will describe one taken from a buck of very large size. It was about eight inches long and an inch and a half in diameter at the base, where it was hard, and had taken its normal shape. About two and a half inches from the head the first prong was sent out, and was perfectly shaped and hard. From this point to the end the horn varied in density. until, at the extremity, it was a mere pulp, with a very small amount of bony substance. The second or largest prong had just begun to be formed. Across the end it was somewhat flattened, more than two and a half inches wide, and as thick as the horn would be when matured. When dried, the end shrunk and shriveled like some soft vegetable, and, when cut after drying, was nearly as porous as a sponge.
The horns of all these animals are, doubtless, extremely sensitive, for the bucks that wear them are seldom seen while they are growing, nor until well hardened. We seldom see horns that are damaged during growth, still I have noticed them broken down and healed. I have also seen where a knot had been broken off in a horn, and afterwards covered by a new growth. The skin, or velvet, on the horn of the live animal seems as tough as the skin on the other parts. I have seen large horns with the ends of all the main prongs pulpy. On the final hardening of the bony substance the skin dies and is rubbed off.
Some naturalists try to classify animals of the deer kind by their horns, and determine their ages by the number of prongs on each; but the excep- tions to this rule are many and marked. Edward Spaulding. who lived in Lancaster when the moose were in their glory, told of one with horns a foot wide and seventeen prongs on each. In the fall of 1848, on the head waters of Hall's stream, I saw the bones of a moose of the largest size, that had died when the horns were in the velvet. The carcass had been torn and the horns much eaten bv the bears. These horns were about two and
%i
a half feet long, shaped likeapalm almost from the head, and ten or eleven inches wide in the widest place. The next February (1849) John H.
Spaulding went into that immediate vicinity and killed a bull n se, one
of the horns of which I have examined. The shaft was t wenty-one inches long and rounded almost as perfectly as that of the deer. It was broken
6S History of Coos County.
off and rounded. About nine inches from the head was a well-rounded and sharp prong eight inches long. At thirteen inches was another prong, broken off when soft, leaving about four inches, and still another nearer the end three inches long and very sharp. Judge Caton concludes that the American moose is a separate animal from the Scandinavian elk. because his horns are more pal mated; this moose had horns precisely like the animal represented in Judge Caton's work. The time of moulting, or shedding the horns, by the deer, moose, and caribou, depends much on circumstances. I have known a buck to shed his horns in November, and 1 have heard of one that wore a large pair of white horns in the spring. The moose seldom carries his antlers so late as the one killed by Mr. Spaulding.
I have horns of the deer of the normal shape: Shaft seventeen inches long, spread at points eleven inches, three prongs on each, aside from main shaft, rounded, and very sharp. I think I have seen four prongs on a single horn, but no more. I have another pair of horns, with the head, taken from one of the largest bucks I ever saw. These are about an inch and a half in diameter at the base, and nineteen inches in length. About four inches from the head is a very sharp prong on each, one about three, the other about two inches long. On the left horn is a small prong about one inch long, five inches from the end of the main shaft, very sharp. These horns are flattened to an edge on the upper side, and about two inches wide in the widest place. The shaft is otherwise of the usual shape and handsomely turned. I once killed a buck not one-third the size of the one above mentioned, having well- developed horns with three or four sharp prongs on each. I have seen a deer above the common size with only spike horns, six inches long, nearly as sharp as the tines of a pitchfork.
The Bear. -The bear was one of the original proprietors of the soil of this northern country, and still holds his own against all odds. The vaga- bond hunters had much rather expend their superfluous courage on deer and kindred animals than on such ''rough things" as bears. I would say of "bruin" that I have known him from the little, crawling, blind cub, not larger than a large rat, brought forth in February or the first of March, to the old " sheep -killer " weighing four or five hundred pounds. Each she bear produces two and sometimes three cubs, which in their earliest stages are the most insignificant little things imaginable. They fasten at once upon the mother, and for about two months draw their sus- tenance from her without her partaking of any food; consequently she comes oat of her den the last of April, or the first of May, extremely thin, while the cubs are as large as woodchucks. These cubs follow the mother the first season until it is time to den up in the fall, when they are driven off and den together, and, if they survive, remain near each other the fol- lowing season. If all the cubs and young bears lived, bears would be so numerous that the country would be overrun with them, but I think many
GrAME OF COOS ( !OUNTY. 69
perish during their first winter, and many more in the spring, when they first come out. I have known of several instances where they have been found in a tarnished condition and almost helpless. They arc, when a year old, not much larger than a collie dog, but they grow very rapidly after vegetation starts. No animal fights for her young with more goodwill than the bear, and woe to the man, boy, or dog, that interferes with her cubs. I do not know of any wild animals of the same species where there is such a diversity of size and appearance as in the black bear ; those of the largest size being truly formidable animals, and often a terror to neighbor- hoods. The ordinary bear lives mostly on roots, green herbs and berries, seldom killing sheep or doing other mischief, and if let alone is as harmless as fawns. In the early settlement of Lancaster there was one who con- cluded to live on the inhabitants, and if he could not find what he liked in the pastures or fields would tear off boards from the barns and walk in and help himself to sheep or calves as best suited him. He continued his depredations for a long time and was shot at often but to no effect. At last, Isaac Darby trapped and killed him. He was of monstrous size. I have had a strong passion for hunting the bear, and of some fifteen, that I have killed in the last twenty or thirty years, only one has been of the largest size of those old "sheep killers." This animal (I think in 1854) killed not less than fifty sheep and many young cattle during the summer and fall. The spring following he returned to the scene of his former depre- dations before the stock was out to pasture, and I was requested to try my skill on him, as all others had failed. He made it his home in the swamp east of where Capt. Beattie now lives. On our way up to set some traps, we met a noted hunter, and he told us in great excitement that he had seen him, and ''he didn't care a thing about me. He was as big as a cow. I cracked a cap on him, but my gun wouldn't go " He did not seem inclined to go back with us, and "crack another cap," or to majjfe the distance one foot less between him and "bruin." We trapped the bear one Saturday night, about the 1st of May. The next day, the churches were thinly attended, and, after a chase of several miles, " bruin " was killed. He was as fat as a well fatted hog. I had no means of ascertaining bis weight, but a friend of mine took these measurements: From his tail to bis nose, six feet two inches; lying upon his back, his fore legs by bis side, and bis hind legs stretched out like those of a man, he measured eight feet from the end of his toes to his nose; he was twenty-two inches across his breast ; his "arms" were twenty-one inches round near the body, and apparently as hard as a piece of beech- wood; across the ball of his fore foot was rive and three fourths inches; his longest nail was three inches outside the bend. His skin made a good sized sleigh robe without tanning.
The bear is stealthy, and never approaches bis victim in a direct line, bul in zigzag courses, as if he would pass by his prey, till sufficiently near, when
TO History of Coos County.
he darts upon it with lightning speed, and at once proceeds to eat his game alive. He will eat decayed flesh only when reduced to great extremity by hunger. Bears are seldom seen in the forest, as they lie close to the ground and allow persons to pass very near them without moving. There is no doubt but that the large male bears kill the smaller ones, and each other, when they can. I caught a large one whose skin had been torn in two places across the back the width of a man's hand, and length- wise, two or three inches; it appeared as if the animal had attempted to escape from his antagonist, which struck both paws upon his back and tore his hide as he escaped.
Wolverine. — Among the game animals of Coos first to disappear was the wolverine. This was the natural enemy of the beaver, and the beavers, in order to protect themselves from its depredations, would, after freezing weather commenced, cover their houses with a coat of soft muck that becam3 a crust that the wolverine could not break through. I have heard hunters complain of wolverines following their lines of sable traps and robbing them of the bait and game caught in them. It was a rare animal after the disappearance of the beaver, and could not exist after the destruc- tion of the moose and deer.
Lynx. — The "bob-cat," or Siberian lynx, was common while the deer remained, but he, with his shaggy coat, and the ugliest face that ever stared at a human being, is gone, I trust, never to return.
Otter. — Among the first and most valuable of furred animals was the otter, but as it was a wandering, solitary animal, living oh fish, the num- ber was never great. There are some still remaining, but, being nocturnal in their habits, they are seldom seen. They might live for years in our streams and ponds and their presence only be detected by persons familiar with their habits.
The Fisher is another of the furred animals of former days. He flour- ished while the deer remained, but disappeared when he could no longer eke out a cold winter upon the carcasses of the superannuated old buck, doe, or fawns killed by hunters or the "bob-cat." This animal is of the weasel family, of much value, and about two-thirds the size of the fox.
Sable. — Next to the beaver in importance as a furred animal was that beautiful little creature, the sable. It was near the size of a half-grown house-cat, but much longer in proportion, of the weasel kind, head and ear like the fox. It lived upon what would satisfy a small carnivorous animal of the forest. Nocturnal in its habits, it was seldom seen, except when caught in a trap. The sable was secured by the hunters setting lines of traps. The trappers would start from a given point and go into the woods often several miles, and, at intervals of forty or fifty rods, make a wooden trap which they would bait with a piece of flesh or fish, then make a cir- cuit, and finally return to their starting point. They would pass over this
Game of Coos County. 71
line once in three or four days to secure their game and keep their traps in order. For a long period within my remembrance sable skins have been a very considerable source of income to the inhabitants of Coos. They were much used to make muffs and capes for the women, in my day. The muff of Mrs. Major Weeks was large enough to let her arms in to the elbows, and contained more than thirty prime sable skins, and with her cape seventy or eighty. My mother's muff contained thirty skins of choice quality. They always bore a good price in cash. A month spent in the fall by an experienced trapper would often secure a hundred or more. The sable, like the fisher, was dependent on the larger game, like the moose and deer, to carry them through our northern winters. So what was left by the hunters ceased to thrive, and only a few remain.
The Raccoon and Grey Squirrel are only visitors of Coos. In former times, when beech-nuts were plenty, they made their appearance in con- siderable numbers.
Wild Geese, Ducks, Etc. — Fifty years ago wild geese were plenty about the ponds and in Connecticut river near Lancaster. They often came in flocks of ten or a dozen, in September, and remained till freezing weather in the late fall. They were frequently killed by experienced sportsmeu. Black and wood ducks were here in vast numbers, and some remained to within a few years. They made their nests and raised their young about the meadows, and in the fall were hunted by those who liked canvass backs but were willing to accept black or wood in place thereof. Perhaps the hunting was not according to the rules of sportsmen, but it filled the bag with game. The old Dutch gun, or Queen's arm, charged with two fin- gers of powder and an ounce of BB shot would sweep a space on a pond or river a yard and a half wide, and kill at a distance that would strike a modern sportsman with envy. The ducks are gone with the geese.
Grouse. — The ruffed grouse, or partridge, was found in great numbers in all our woods, but lately they are seldom seen, even in the dee}) forests where they are not hunted. The Canada grouse, or spruce partridge, was quite common. Although called a game bird, it would require a strange palate to call its flesh delicious. All naturalists in treating of the ruffed grouse describe his drumming, but make no mention of that of the ( anada grouse which instead of sitting upon a log and beat ing regular strokes with his wings, making a sound like the beating an inflated ox bladder upon a log, reaches the top of a tree by hopping from branch to branch, then hops off and makes a drumming noise as he descends to the ground. I will describe one I saw that much interested me. I heard what I supposed to be the drumming of a common partridge, and went to shoot it, butsawitwas a Canada grouse, and sat down and watched him. lie was on the ground, his feathers standing so many ways he hardly retained the shape of a bird. No dandy ever made a greater display. He began to
72 History of Coos County.
ascend the bushes and limbs of the small trees about, by hopping and flying up a foot or two at a time, retaining his brustling and pompous mood. When he was up twenty or thirty feet, he hopped off a limb and came down almost perpendicularly making a fluttering, drumming noise as he descended. I watched him go through this performance several times. Thinking it a pity to spoil so much good feeling I left him to his enjoy- ment.
Pigeons. — In my boyhood I have seen flocks of hundreds of thousands, if not millions of wild pigeons. My father had a net and I have baited it and caught them till I was tired. They used to breed on the mountains in the vicinity. I once saw one of their "roosts." I was projecting a line through the forest on the highlands between this state and Canada, some- time in the " forties," and noticed egg shells on the ground. Looking up we saw that in the tops of the trees every place where sticks could be placed was occupied by a pigeon's nest. Some trees had as many as twenty or thirty. We camped in the midst of them, and the next morning went at least half a mile before we came to the end. Pigeons came in reduced numbers till within a few years, but they are now gone with the other game animals and birds; and Coos, from being the finest sporting ground in the world, is now about the poorest.
CHAPTER IX.
EARLY HISTORY.
Early Trappers and Hunters— Indian Threats — Capture of Stark and Eastman — Powers' Expedition — Extracts from Journal — Fort Wentworth — First Settlers — Townships, and Date of Grants — Early Population.
T"T ARLY Trappers and Visitors.— After the exploration of Field and |ff others (1632— 1:2) it was more than a century before we again hear of 'Hf white men within the limits of Coos county. The English were push- ing their settlements up the valleys of the Connecticut and the Merrimack, trappers penetrated the wilderness far above the settlements, and they often met the Indians on these hunting excursions and evidently were on friendly terms witli them. John and Israel Glines came here very early, prior to 1750, several years before any expedition of discovery was sent to explore the wilds of Upper Cohos. These men came to get a part of their means of support, working on their land through "springtime and har-
Early History. ;:>,
vest," and then repairing to this wilderness in the autumn to gel the where- withal to supply their families with greater com forts than were then obtain- able from the meager soil of their rough farms.
John Glines had his camp near the mouth of the river which bears his name, while Israel had his headquarters near the placid Connecticut, Israel's river, and Beaver brook, where the traces of two distinct beaver dams are still to be seen. Here he carried on his hunting and trapping operations successfully.
Benjamin Nash, Willard, Thomas Barker, Edwards Bucknam, and others, followed the Glineses, and the almost mythical Martin, who gave his name to Martin Meadows. The Glineses became involved in trouble with the Indians by shooting one of them, and left to return no more. The later ones came, no doubt, more than once, on their hunting expeditions, to the upper Connecticut. But the French as well as Indians were becom- ing jealous of the extension northward of English settlements. As the English contemplated laying out two towns in the spring of 1752, which should embrace the lower Coos meadows, the Indians remonstrated and threatened. It is probable, however, that their threats were not known to all the settlers, for four young men from Londonderry were hunting on Baker's river, in Eumney, and two of these, John Stark and Amos East- man, were surprised and captured by the Indians, April l;s, i 752. They were taken to Lower Coos where two of the Indians had been left to kill game against their return. The next day they proceeded to the Upper Coos, from which place they sent Eastman with three of their number to St. Francis. "The remainder of the Indians employed themselves for some time in hunting upon a small stream called John's river." — [Stark's Memoirs.] They reached St. Francis June 9th, when Stark joined his companion, Eastman. They were soon after ransomed and returned to their homes.
Powers'' Expedition. — The best known of all the expeditions to Coos, was that of the company under command of Capt. Peter Powers, of Hollis, N. H., Lt. James Stevens, and Ensign Ephraim Hale, of Townsend, Mass. They commenced their tour Saturday, June 15, 1754. Starting from Concord, they followed the Merrimack river to Franklin, the Pemigewas- set river to Plymouth, Baker's river to Wentworth, and then crossed over to the Connecticut, via Baker's pond. They were ten days in reaching " Moose Meadows," which were in Piermont.
We extract from their journal: —
" Thursday, Junt 21th. — This morning it was cloudy weather, and it began (o rain, the sun about an hour high, and we marched, notwithstanding, up the river to [ Lowe? | Amonoosuck Ri\ er, and our course was about north, distance about live miles; and we camped here, for the River Amonoosuck was so high we could not go over il without a canoe; for it was swift water, and near twenty rods wide. This afternoon it cleared off fair, and we went about our canoe, and
74 History of Coos County.
partly built it. Some of our men went up the River Amonoosuck, to see what discoveries they could make; and they discovered excellent land, and a considerable quantity of large white pines.
" Friday, June 28th. — This morning fair weather, and we went about the canoe, and completed the same by about twelve of the clock this day, and went over the river; and we concluded to let the men go down the river in the canoe, who were not likely to perform the remaining part of the journey, by reason of sprains in the ankles, and weakness of body. They were four in number; and we steered our course for the great interval about east, northeast; and we this day marched, after we left the river, about ten miles. And the land was exceedingly good upland, and some quantity of white pine, but not thick, but some of them fit for masts.
" Saturday, June 29th. — This morning was cloudy, but we swung our packs, and steered our course about northeast, ten miles, and came to Connecticut River. There it came on rainy, and we camped by the side of the-river, and it rained all this afternoon, and we kept our camp all this night. [This was in the southern part of what is now Dalton.] The land was, this day's march, very good, and it may be said as good as ever was seen by any of us. The common growth of wood was beech and maple, and not thick at all. It hath a great quantity of small brooks. This day and the day past, there were about three brooks tit for corn mills; and these were the largest of the brooks that we saw.
"Sunday, June 307/j. — This morning exceeding rainy weather, and it rained all the night past, and continued raining until twelve of the clock this day; and after that, it was fair weather, and we marched up Connecticut River; and our course we made good this day was about five miles, east by north, and there came to a large stream, which came from the southeast. This river is about three rods wide, and we called it Stark's River, by reason of Ensign John Stark's being iound (captured) by the Indians at the mouth of this river. [This is John's river.] It comes into the Connecticut at the foot of the upper interval, and thence we travelled up the interval about seven miles, and came to a large river which came from the southeast; and it is about rive rods wide. Here we concluded to go no further with the full scout, by reason of our provisions being almost all spent; and almost all our men had worn out their shoes. This river we caded Powers' River, it being the camping place at the end of our journey; and there we camped by the river. [The river they named Powers' river is Israel's river.]
"Tuesday, July 2d. — This morning fair weather, and we thought proper to mend our shoes, and to return homeward; and accordingly we went about the same; and whilst the men were this way engaged, the captain, with two of his men, marched up the river to see what further discov- eries they could make, and they travelled about rive miles, and there they discovered where the Indians had a large camping place, and had been making canoes, and had not been gone above one or two days at most; and so they returned to the rest of the men again about twelve of the clock; and then we returned, and marched down the river to Stark's River, and there camped. This afternoon it rained hard, but we were forced to travel for want of provisions. This interval is exceedingly large, and the farther up the larger. The general course of this river is from north- cast by east as far as the interval extends. [The captain and his two men penetrated, probably, as far as Hay Camp meadow, in the north part of Lancaster, and travelled nearly 140 miles beyond the habitations of civilized men. At Hay Camp meadow, or below, they first fell upon the trail of Indians, where they had, probably, been preparing canoes to descend upon the frontier settle- ments.]
" Wednesday, July :)J.— This morning cloudy weather, and thundered; and after the sun an hour high, it rained hard, and continued about an hour, and then we swung packs, and steered cur course west-southwest, aiming for Amonoosuck River, and this day we marched about four- teen miles, and camped.
" Thursday, July 4(//.-We marched on our course west-southwest, and this day we marched about twenty miles, and camped-
" Friday, July 5th —We marched about three miles to our packs, at Amonoosuck, the same course we had steered heretofore; and we afterwards went over Connecticut River, and looked up Well's River, and camped a little below Well's River this night.
"Saturday, July Qth.— Marched down the great river to Great Coos, and then crossed the
Early History. 75
river below the great turn of clear interval, and there left the great river, and steered south by east about three miles, and there camped. Here was the best of upland, and some quantity of large white pines."
The journal is fragmentary and meagre, and the comments made by Rev. Mr. Powers have not given us any additional light, but have rather added obscurity to the original narrative. He says that Ihe object of the expedition was discovery; but if Captain Powers' company was the one referred to by Governor Wentworth in a message of May 4, 1 7.">4, and in one of December 5, 17r>4, they certainly went to see if the French were building a fort in the Upper Coos. As this was the only expedition fitted out during the year that went in this direction, it is quite certain that this is the one to which the message referred. But it is something to be able to say that Capt. Peter Powers, with his command, was the first body of English speaking people who camped on the broad intervals of Coos county. It would seem as if they were not of such stuff as pioneers were made of, for their conclusion to return seems to have been reached about the time they saw signs that indicated a probable proximity of Indians.
Fort Wentworth. — In 1755 so little was known of the geography of the country, that the "Coos Meadows," on the Connecticut, above Lancaster, were supposed to be on the direct route from "Salisbury Fort " to Crown Point, and Colonel Blanchard was to march his regiment through the "Coos Meadows " to Crown Point. Supposing that there was to be opportunity for a passage of the troops, some, if not most of the way, by water, by the Merrimack, Connecticut, and other rivers, the regiment in rendezvous were kept busily at work building batteaux for transportation of the troops and stores, whilst Capt. Robert Rogers was sent forward to " Coos Meadows " with his company to build a fort for the occupation of the regi- ment, and for resort in case of disaster. Capt. Rogers executed his com- mission, and built, or partially built, a fort on the Connecticut about three or four miles above the mouth of the Upper Ammonoosuc river. This was called " Fort Wentworth."* After Rogers' return, and the regiment had spent some six weeks in building batteaux that could not be used for want of water, Gov. Wentworth discovered his error, and ordered the regiment to proceed across the Province to "Number Four." and then to Crown Point by way of Albany. — Adjutant GeneraVs Report, 1866.
Settlement. — After fifteen years of war and bloodshed,